Amazon no longer offers textbook rentals. We do!

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

by: Tortora, Phyllis G.

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

by: Tortora, Phyllis G.

ISBN 13:
9781563673450
ISBN 10:
1563673452
Edition: 4th
Format: Hardcover
Copyright: 06/30/2005
Publisher: Bloomsbury USA Academic

Rent

Sorry, this item is currently unavailable.

Note: Supplemental materials are not guaranteed with Rental or Used book purchases.

Extend or Purchase Your Rental at Any Time

Need to keep your rental past your due date? At any time before your due date you can extend or purchase your rental through your account.

Summary

This bestseller brings the authors' analysis of Western dress up to date and adds a number of new features. Survey of Historic Costume, 4th Edition, is a basic text for readers who want an overview and chronology of costume, discussing the dress of each era within its historical, cultural and economic contexts.

Preface

xvii

Acknowledgments

xviii

Some Notes on Using This Book

xxi

Introduction

(10)

The Origins of Dress

(1)

Limitations to the Design of Garments

(1)

Common Themes in Costume History Across Time

(1)

Functions of Dress in the Social Context

(2)

Clothing as a Means of Social Communication

(1)

The Historical Context

(1)

Cross-Cultural Influences

(1)

Geography, the Natural Environment, and Ecology

(1)

Clothing as an Art Form

(1)

The Phenomenon of Fashion in Western Dress

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Historic Costume

(1)

Summary

(1)

Notes

(1)

Selected Readings

(2)

Part One The Ancient World c. 3000 B.C.--A.D. 300

(72)

Table 1.1 Civilizations of the Ancient World

(3)

The Ancient Middle East c. 3500--600 B.C.

(28)

Chronology

(2)

Historical Background: Mesopotamia

(1)

Historical Background: Egypt

(1)

Differences in the Development of Egyptian and Mesopotamian Civilizations

(1)

Mesopotamian Civilization

(1)

Social Structure

(1)

The Family

(1)

Fabrics and Cloth Production

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Sumerian Costume

(1)

Mesopotamian Costume/Sumerian Costume for Men and Women: c. 3500--2500 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(1)

Mesopotamian Costume/Later Sumerians and Babylonians: c. 2500--1000 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men/Military Dress: c. 2500--1000 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men/Civilian Dress: c. 2500--1000 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Women: c. 2500--1000 B.C.

(1)

Mesopotamian Costume/Later Babylonians and the Assyrians: c. 1000--600 B.C.

(1)

The Tunic

(1)

Costume Components for Men: c. 1000--600 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men/Military Dress

(1)

Costume Components for Women: c. 1000--600 B.C.

(1)

Mesopotamian Costume for Children: c. 3500--600 B.C.

(1)

Egyptian Civilization

(1)

Social Structure

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Egyptian Costume

(1)

Egyptian Art

(1)

The Contents of Tombs

(1)

Egyptian Decorative Motifs

(1)

Contributions of Artisans to Costume

(1)

Textile Production and Technology

(1)

Jewelry

(1)

Egyptian Costume: c. 3000--300 B.C.

(1)

Costume Terminology

(1)

Egyptian Costume for Men: c. 3000--300 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men

(1)

Table 2.1 Garments Worn by Egyptian Men and Women During Various Historical Periods

(1)

Contemporary Comments 2.1

(2)

Egyptian Costume for Women: 3000--300 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Women

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(3)

Egyptian Costume for Children: 3000--300 B.C.

(1)

Egyptian Costume for Specialized Occupations

(1)

Military Costume

(1)

Religious Costume

(1)

Illustrated Table 2.1 Some of the Headdress Worn in Ancient Egypt

(2)

Costume for Musicians, Dancers, and Acrobats

(1)

Summary

(1)

Themes

(1)

Visual Summary Table

(1)

Later Survivals of Mesopotamian and Egyptian Dress

(1)

Notes

(1)

Selected Readings

(2)

Crete and Greece c. 2900--300 B.C.

(20)

Chronology

(2)

Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations

(1)

Historical Background

(1)

Social Organization and Material Culture of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations

(1)

Art and Technology of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations

(1)

Minoan Costume for Men and Women: 2900--1150 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(2)

Minoan Costume for Children: 2900--1150 B.C.

(1)

Transitions in the Dominant Styles

(1)

Greek Civilization

(1)

Historical Background

(1)

Social Organization of the Greek Civilization

(1)

Fabrics and Cloth Production

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Greek Costume

(1)

Greek Art

(1)

Greek Costume for Men and Women: 800--300 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(1)

Table 3.1 Types of Chitons Worn by Greek Men and Women

(2)

Illustrated Table 3.1 Examples of Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by Men and Women in Greece

(2)

Contemporary Comments 3.1

(1)

Greek Costume for Children: 800--300 B.C.

(1)

Contemporary Comments 3.2

(1)

Costume Components for Children

(1)

Greek Costume for Specialized Occupations or Occasions

(1)

Wedding Dress

(1)

Military Costume

(1)

Theatrical Costume

(1)

Summary

(1)

Themes

(1)

Visual Summary Table

(1)

Later Survivals of Greek Dress

(1)

Notes

(1)

Selected Readings

(3)

Etruria and Rome c. 800 B.C.--A.D. 400

(20)

Chronology

(2)

The Etruscans

(1)

Historical Background

(1)

Social Life of the Etruscans

(1)

Art and Trade of the Etruscans

(1)

Etruscan Costume for Men and Women: c. 800--200 B.C.

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(2)

Etruscan Costume for Children: c. 800--200 B.C.

(1)

The Romans

(1)

Historical Background

(1)

Social Life in the Roman Empire

(1)

Fabrics and Clothing Production

(1)

Table 4.1 The Appearance and Significance of Various Types of Togas

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Roman Costume

(1)

Roman Costume for Men and Women

(1)

The Toga

(3)

Contemporary Comments 4.1

(1)

Costume Components for Men: 500 B.C.--A.D. 400

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 500 B.C.--A.D. 400

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women: 500 B.C.--A.D. 400

(1)

Illustrated Table 4.1 Examples of Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by Men and Women During the Roman Empire

(1)

Roman Costume for Children: 500 B.C.--A.D. 400

(1)

Military Costume for Men During the Roman Empire

(1)

Roman Costume for Special Events

(1)

The Synthesis

(1)

Bridal Costume

(1)

Religious Garb

(1)

Changes in Costume During the Declining Years of the Roman Empire

(1)

Summary

(1)

Differences Between Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Costume

(1)

Themes in Etruscan and Roman Dress

(1)

Visual Summary Table

(1)

Survivals of Etruscan and Roman Dress

(1)

Notes

(1)

Selected Readings

(2)

Part Two The Middle Ages c. 300--1500

(64)

The Early Middle Ages c. 300--1300

(34)

Chronology

(2)

The Byzantine Period c. 330--1453

(1)

Historical Background

(1)

Social Organization in the Byzantine Period

(1)

Culture, Art, and Technology in the Byzantine Period

(2)

Byzantine Costume for Men: A.D. 300--1450

(1)

Costume Components for Men

(2)

Byzantine Costume for Women: A.D. 300--1453

(1)

Costume Components for Women

(1)

Byzantine Costume for Men and Women: A.D. 300--1450

(1)

Costume Components for Men and Women

(1)

Western Europe from the Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900

(1)

Historical Background: The Fall of the Roman Empire

(1)

Historical Background: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Costume

(1)

Costume in Western Europe: Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900

(1)

The Production of Cloth

(1)

Costume for Men: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties

(1)

Contemporary Comments 5.1

(1)

Costume Components for Men: The Merovingian Period

(1)

Costume Components for Men: The Carolingian Period

(1)

Costume for Women: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties

(1)

Costume Components for Women: The Merovingian Period

(1)

Costume Components for Women: The Carolingian Period

(1)

Clerical Costume in the Early Middle Ages

(1)

Dress of Priests

(1)

Monastic Dress

(1)

Historical Background: The 10th--13th Centuries

(1)

The Feudal Monarchies

(1)

Political Developments in Europe: 900--1300

(1)

The German Dynasties

(1)

Anglo-Saxon and Norman Britain

(2)

The French Kings

101

(1)

Factors Related to Developments in Costume

101

(1)

The Crusades

101

(1)

Medieval Castles and Courts

101

(1)

Town Life

101

(1)

Fabric Production

101

(1)

Art

102

(1)

Costume in the 10th and 11th Centuries

102

(1)

Costume Components for Men: 10th and 11th Centuries

102

(2)

Costume Components for Women: 10th and 11th Centuries

104

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: 12th Century

105

(1)

Costume Components for Men: 12th Century

105

(2)

Costume Components for Women: 12th Century

107

(1)

Problems of Costume Terminology in the 13th Century

108

(1)

Costume in the 13th Century

108

(1)

Costume Components for Men: 13th Century

108

(1)

Contemporary Comments 5.2

109

(1)

Table 5.1 Old English and French Costume Terms

110

(3)

Costume for Women: 13th Century

113

(1)

Accessories of Dress for Men and Women: 10th--13th Centuries

114

(1)

Military Costume

114

(1)

Summary

115

(1)

Themes

115

(1)

Visual Summary Table

116

(1)

Origins, Developments, and Survivals of Byzantine and Early Medieval Styles

117

(1)

Notes

118

(1)

Selected Readings

118

(3)

The Late Middle Ages c. 1300 -- 1500

121

(26)

Chronology

120

(2)

Historical Background

122

(1)

Medieval Social Structure

122

(1)

The Peasant

122

(1)

The Nobility

123

(1)

The Bourgeoisie

124

(1)

Fabrics and Tailors

124

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume

124

(1)

Art

124

(1)

Contemporary Comments 6.1

125

(1)

Documentary Sources

125

(1)

Fashion Change Becomes Evident

125

(1)

Costume for Men: 14th Century

126

(1)

Costume Components for Men: 14th Century

126

(3)

Costume for Women: 14th Century

129

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 14th Century

129

(2)

Costume for Men and Women: 15th Century

131

(1)

Costume for Men: 15th Century

131

(1)

Contemporary Comments 6.2

132

(2)

Costume for Women: 15th Century

134

(2)

Costume for Children: 14th and 15th Centuries

136

(1)

Mourning Costume for Men and Women

137

(1)

Costume for Specialized Occupations

138

(1)

Student Dress

138

(1)

Illustrated Table 6.1 Evolution and Styles of 15th-Century Headdress for Women

139

(1)

Military Dress

140

(2)

Illustrated Table 6.2 Late Middle Age Accessories

141

(1)

Summary

142

(1)

Themes

142

(1)

Survivals of Styles from the Late Middle Ages

142

(1)

Visual Summary Table

143

(1)

Notes

144

(1)

Selected Readings

145

(2)

Part Three The Renaissance C. 1400--1600

147

(46)

The Italian Renaissance c. 1400--1600

151

(18)

Chronology

150

(2)

Historical Background

152

(1)

The Political Organization in Renaissance Italy

152

(1)

Life in Renaissance Italy

152

(1)

The Production and Acquisition of Textiles

153

(1)

The Cloth Industries in Renaissance Italy

153

(1)

The Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing

153

(1)

Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East

153

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Costume

154

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: 1400--1600

154

(1)

Costume for Men: 1400--1450

154

(1)

Costume for Women: 1400--1450

154

(1)

Costume for Men: 1450--1500

154

(2)

Contemporary Comments 7.1

156

(3)

Costume for Women: 1450--1500

159

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century

159

(1)

Costume for Men: 16th Century

160

(2)

Illustrated Table 7.1 Italian Renaissance: Accessories

162

(1)

Costume for Women: 16th Century

162

(1)

Regional Distinctions in Costume for Men and Women: 15th and 16th Centuries

163

(1)

Distinctive Venetian Costume for Women

163

(1)

Distinctive Venetian Costume for Men

163

(1)

Venetian Dress for Officials

163

(1)

Contemporary Comments 7.2

164

(1)

Costume for Children During the Italian Renaissance

164

(1)

Summary

165

(1)

Themes

165

(1)

Visual Summary Table

166

(1)

Survival of Italian Renaissance Styles

167

(1)

Notes

167

(1)

Selected Readings

167

(2)

The Northern Renaissance c. 1500 -- 1600

169

(24)

Chronology

168

(2)

Historical Background

170

(1)

Developments in Germany

170

(1)

Developments in Spain

170

(1)

Developments in England

171

(1)

Developments in France

171

(1)

Factors in the Dissemination of Fashion Information

171

(1)

Table 8.1 Royal Intermarriages During the 16th Century

172

(1)

Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East

172

(1)

Textiles

172

(1)

Changes in Technology

172

(1)

Decorative Techniques of the 16th Century

172

(1)

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume

173

(1)

Art

173

(1)

Documentary Sources

173

(1)

Actual Garments

173

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century

173

(1)

Costume for Men: 1500--1515

174

(1)

Costume for Men: 1515--1550

175

(1)

Costume for Men: 1550--1600

175

(3)

Costume for Women: 16th Century

178

(1)

Costume for Women: 1500--1530

179

(1)

Contemporary Comments 8.1

180

(1)

Costume for Women in Germany: 1530--1575

180

(1)

Costume for Women in Other Northern European Countries: 1530--1575

181

(2)

Costume Components for Women: 1575--1600

183

(2)

Costume Accessories for Men and Women: 16th Century

185

(1)

Illustrated Table 8.1 Northern Renaissance: Accessories

186

(1)

Costume for Children: 16th Century

187

(1)

Summary

188

(1)

Themes

188

(1)

Visual Summary Table

189

(1)

Survivals of 16th Century Dress

190

(1)

Notes

190

(1)

Selected Readings

190

(3)

Part Four Baroque and Rococo C. 1600--1800

193

(60)

The Arts During the Baroque and Rococo Periods

193

(1)

Expanding Trade with the Far East

194

(1)

The Cotton Trade with India

195

(1)

The Industrial Revolution

196

(1)

The Consumer Society and the Acceleration of Fashion Change

196

(3)

The Seventeenth Century 1600--1700

199

(26)

Chronology

198

(2)

Historical Background

200

(1)

France

200

(1)

England

200

(1)

Social Life During the 17th Century

201

(1)

The French Court

201

(1)

England

201

(1)

Holland

201

(1)

America

202

(1)

Some Distinctive Costume Traditions

202

(1)

Puritan Costume

202

(1)

Spanish Costume

202

(1)

Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing

203

(1)

Sources of Evidence of Historic Costume

204

(1)

Costume for Men: 17th Century

204

(1)

Table 9.1 Terms Describing Men's Trouser-Type Garments: 16th Century to 19th Century

205

(1)

Costume for Men: 1625--1650

206

(1)

Costume for Men: 1650--1680

207

(1)

Costume for Men: 1680--1710

208

(1)

Contemporary Comments 9.1

209

(1)

Costume for Women: 17th Century

210

(1)

Costume for Women: 1630--1660

210

(1)

Illustrated Table 9.1 9th-17th Centuries Accessories

211

(2)

Costume for Women: 1660--1680

213

(1)

Costume for Women: 1680--1700

213

(3)

Contemporary Comments 9.2

216

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: 17th Century

217

(1)

Costume for Children: 17th Century

217

(2)

Costume Components for Children

219

(1)

Summary

220

(1)

Themes

220

(1)

Survivals of 17th Century Styles

220

(1)

Visual Summary Table

221

(1)

Notes

222

(1)

Selected Readings

222

(3)

The Eighteenth Century 1700--1790

225

(28)

Chronology

224

(2)

Historical Background

226

(1)

The Arts

226

(1)

Social Life in 18th Century France

226

(1)

Social Life of the Affluent in 18th Century England

227

(1)

Contemporary Comments 10.1

228

(1)

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles

228

(1)

Advances in Textile Technology

228

(1)

Home Versus Factory Production of Cloth

228

(1)

Clothing Manufacture and Sale

228

(1)

Sources of Information About Costume

229

(1)

The American Colonies in the 18th Century

229

(1)

Urban Clothing Styles

229

(1)

Working Class and Rural Dress

229

(1)

Some Influences on Costume in the 18th Century

229

(1)

Costume for Men: 18th Century

230

(1)

Costume for Men: Up to Mid-18th Century

231

(1)

Contemporary Comments 10.2

232

(1)

Changes in Men's Costume After the Mid-18th Century

233

(1)

Costume for Men: After the Mid-18th Century

233

(2)

Costume for Women: 18th Century

235

(1)

Illustrated Table 10.1 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress in the 18th Century

236

(1)

Costume for Women: 1715--1730

237

(2)

Costume for Women: 1730--1760

239

(1)

Costume for Women: 1760--1790

239

(1)

Contemporary Comments 10.3

240

(3)

Other Costume Components for Women: The 18th Century

243

(1)

Costumes for Active Sports for Men and Women: The 18th Century

244

(1)

Costume for Children: The 18th Century

244

(1)

First Half of the 18th Century

244

(1)

Second Half of the 18th Century

244

(1)

Illustrated Table 10.2 18th Century Accessories

245

(3)

Summary

248

(1)

Themes

248

(1)

Survivals of 18th Century Dress

248

(1)

Visual Summary Table

249

(1)

Notes

250

(1)

Selected Readings

250

(3)

Part Five The Nineteenth Century 1800--1900

253

(104)

Historical Background

253

(1)

France

253

(1)

England

253

(1)

Italy and Austria

253

(1)

The United States

254

(1)

Industrialization

255

(1)

Cross-Cultural Influences on Fashion

256

(1)

Textiles from India

256

(1)

Resumption of Trade with Japan

257

(1)

Morality and Values in the 19th Century

257

(1)

Dress Reform for Women

258

(1)

Changes in Clothing for Men

258

(1)

The End of an Age

259

(2)

The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790--1820

261

(18)

Chronology

260

(2)

Historical Background

262

(1)

France: The Revolution and the Directory

262

(2)

France: The Empire

264

(1)

England

264

(1)

The United States

264

(1)

The Arts and Costume Styles of the Period

265

(1)

The Revolution in Men's Clothes

265

(1)

Contemporary Comments 11.1

266

(1)

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles

267

(1)

Sources of Information About Costume

267

(1)

Costume for Women: Directoire and Empire Periods

267

(3)

Costume for Men: Directoire and Empire Periods

270

(1)

Illustrated Table 11.1 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress in the Empire Period

271

(1)

Illustrated Table 11.2 Empire Period: Accessories

272

(2)

Costume for Children: The Empire Period

274

(1)

Costume for Girls

274

(1)

Costume for Boys

275

(1)

Summary

275

(1)

Themes

275

(1)

Survivals of Empire Style Costume

275

(1)

Notes

276

(1)

Visual Summary Table

277

(1)

Selected Readings

277

(2)

The Romantic Period 1820--1850

279

(24)

Chronology

278

(2)

Historical Background

280

(1)

England

280

(1)

France

280

(1)

The United States

281

(1)

Women's Social Roles and Clothing Styles

281

(1)

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles

282

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Costume

282

(1)

Costume for Women: The Romantic Period

282

(1)

Costume for Women: 1820--1835

282

(4)

Costume for Women: 1836--1850

286

(2)

Illustrated Table 12.1 Examples of Women's Hairstyles and Headdress: 1820--1850

288

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 1820--1850

289

(1)

Costume for Men: The Romantic Period

290

(1)

Costume for Men: 1820--1840

290

(1)

Costume for Men: 1840--1850

291

(1)

Costume for Men: 1820--1850

292

(2)

Illustrated Table 12.2 Romantic Period: Accessories

294

(1)

Costume for Children: The Romantic Period

295

(1)

Costume Components for Girls

295

(1)

Costume Components for Boys

295

(1)

Clothing for Slaves in North America

295

(2)

Contemporary Comments 12.1

297

(1)

Summary

298

(1)

Themes

298

(1)

Visual Summary Table

299

(1)

Survivals of Romantic Period Costume Styles

300

(1)

Notes

300

(1)

Selected Readings

300

(3)

The Crinoline Period 1850--1869

303

(24)

Chronology

302

(2)

Worth and the Paris Couture

304

(1)

Historical Background

304

(1)

England

304

(1)

France

304

(1)

The United States

305

(1)

Production of Clothing: The Sewing Machine

306

(1)

Early Attempts at Dress Reform: The ``Bloomer'' Costume

307

(1)

Gymnastics for Women

307

(1)

Contemporary Comments 13.1

308

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Costume

308

(1)

Costume for Men and Women: The Crinoline Period

309

(1)

Costume for Women: 1850--1870

309

(1)

Illustrated Table 13.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children from the Second half of the 19th Century

310

(4)

Illustrated Table 13.2 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress: 1850--1870

314

(2)

Costume for Men: 1850--1870

316

(1)

Illustrated Table 13.3 Crinoline Period, 1850--1860: Accessories

317

(3)

Costume for Children: The Crinoline Period

320

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls: 1850--1870

321

(1)

Costume for Boys: After Age Five or Six

321

(2)

Summary

323

(1)

Themes

323

(1)

Survivals of Crinoline Period Costume Styles

323

(1)

Visual Summary Table

324

(1)

Notes

325

(1)

Selected Readings

325

(2)

The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1870--1900

327

(30)

Chronology

326

(2)

Historical Background: 1870--1890

328

(1)

Historical Background: 1890--1900

328

(1)

Social Life: 1870--1900

328

(1)

Sports for Women

329

(1)

The Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles

329

(1)

Textile Technology

329

(1)

Ready-to-Wear Clothing

329

(1)

Merchandising of Ready-to-Wear

330

(1)

The Visual Arts and Costume

330

(1)

Aesthetic Dress

331

(1)

Art Nouveau

331

(1)

Sources of Evidence About Costume

332

(1)

Costume for Women: The Bustle Period, 1870--1890

332

(1)

General Features of Women's Costume: 1870--1890

332

(1)

Specific Features of Women's Dress Styles During Different Phases of the Bustle Period

333

(3)

Illustrated Table 14.1 Selected Undergarments for Men, Women, and Children: 1870--1900

336

(3)

Contemporary Comments 14.1

339

(1)

Illustrated Table 14.2 Selected Hats and Hairstyles for Women: 1870--1900

340

(2)

Illustrated Table 14.3 Selected Footwear for Women: 1870--1900

342

(1)

Costume for Women: The Nineties

343

(1)

Costume Components for Women

343

(4)

Costume for Men: 1870--1900

347

(2)

Illustrated Table 14.4 Bustle Period and Nineties Accessories: 1870--1900

349

(1)

Costume for Children: 1870--1900

350

(1)

Costume Components for Girls

350

(1)

Costume Components for Boys

350

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls

351

(1)

Table 14.1 Typical Stages in the Acquisition of Adult Clothing in the Late 19th Century

352

(1)

Mourning Costume in the Second Half of the 19th Century

352

(1)

Summary

353

(1)

Themes

353

(1)

Survivals of Bustle and Nineties Costume Styles

353

(1)

Visual Summary Table

354

(1)

Notes

355

(1)

Selected Readings

355

(2)

Part Six The Twentieth Century 1900--1996

357

(195)

Art and Costume in the 20th Century

358

(1)

New Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume

359

(2)

The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900--1920

361

(26)

Chronology

360

(2)

Historical Background

362

(1)

The United States

362

(1)

Great Britain and France at the Turn of the Century

362

(1)

World War I

362

(1)

The Effect of the War on Fashions

362

(1)

Influences on Fashion

363

(1)

The French Couture and Paul Poiret

363

(1)

Fortuny

363

(1)

Contemporary Comments 15.1

364

(1)

Oriental Influences on Art and Fashion

365

(1)

The Changing Social Roles of American Women

365

(1)

The Automobile

365

(1)

American High Society

365

(1)

The Production and Acquisition of Clothing

366

(1)

Sources of Information About Costume

366

(1)

Costume for Women: 1900--1920

366

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 1900--1908

366

(2)

Illustrated Table 15.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1900--1920

368

(2)

Costume for Women: 1909--1914

370

(2)

Costume for Women: 1914--1918

372

(1)

Illustrated Table 15.2 Selected Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1900--1920

373

(2)

Costume for Women: 1918--1920

375

(1)

Costume for Men: 1900--1920

375

(1)

Illustrated Table 15.3 Selected Examples of Footwear for Women: 1900--1920

376

(4)

Illustrated Table 15.4 Edwardian and World War I, 1900--1920: Accessories

380

(1)

Costume for Children: 1900--1920

381

(1)

Costume for Girls

381

(1)

Costume for Boys

382

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls

382

(1)

Summary

383

(1)

Themes

383

(1)

Survivals of Edwardian and World War I Styles

383

(1)

Visual Summary Table

384

(1)

Notes

385

(1)

Selected Readings

385

(2)

The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920--1947

387

(40)

Chronology

386

(2)

Historical Background

388

(1)

The Twenties

388

(1)

Changes in the Social Life of the Twenties

388

(1)

The Thirties

389

(1)

World War II

389

(1)

Contemporary Comments 16.1

390

(1)

Some Influences on Fashions

390

(1)

The Movies

390

(1)

Royalty and Cafe Society

391

(1)

Sports

391

(1)

The Automobile

391

(1)

Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing

391

(1)

Technological Developments Affecting Fashion

391

(1)

The French Couture

392

(2)

Table 16.1 Designers of the French Couture: 1920--1947

394

(1)

Contemporary Comments 16.2

395

(1)

American Designers

395

(2)

Theatre de la Mode

397

(1)

Art Movements and Their Influence on Fashion

398

(1)

Art Deco

398

(1)

Surrealism

398

(1)

Sources of Information About Costume

398

(1)

Costume for Women: 1920--1947

399

(1)

Costume for Women: 1920--1930

399

(1)

Illustrated Table 16.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1920--1947

400

(4)

Illustrated Table 16.2 Selected Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1920--1947

404

(1)

Costume for Women: 1930--1947

405

(2)

Illustrated Table 16.3 Selected Examples of Footwear for Women: 1920--1947

407

(2)

Costume for Women: 1920--1947

409

(2)

Illustrated Table 16.4 1920--1947: Accessories

411

(2)

Costume for Men: 1920--1947

413

(7)

Costume for Children: 1920--1947

420

(1)

Costume for Girls

420

(1)

Costume for Boys

420

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls

420

(1)

Illustrated Table 16.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1920--1947

421

(1)

Costume for the Teenage Market

422

(1)

Summary

423

(1)

Themes

423

(1)

Survivals of Styles of the 1920s and 1930s

423

(1)

Visual Summary Table

424

(1)

Notes

425

(1)

Selected Readings

425

(2)

The New Look: Fashion Conformity Prevails 1947--1960

427

(30)

Chronology

426

(2)

Historical Background

428

(1)

International Developments: 1947--1960

428

(1)

The United States: 1947--1960

429

(1)

Influences on Fashion

430

(1)

The Silent Generation Moves to the Suburbs

430

(1)

Fashion Influences from the Young

430

(1)

The Impact of Television

431

(1)

Internationalism

432

(1)

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles

433

(1)

The Fabric Revolution

433

(1)

The Changing Couture

433

(1)

Table 17.1 Influential Paris-Based Designers, 1947--1960

434

(1)

The American Mass Market

435

(1)

New Centers of Fashion Design

435

(1)

Costume for Women: 1947--1960

435

(1)

Style Features of the New Look

435

(1)

Table 17.2 Some Major American Fashion Designers Who Came to Prominence During World War II and Were Important in the 1950s

436

(1)

Costume for Women: 1947--1954

437

(1)

Illustrated Table 17.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1947--1960

438

(1)

Contemporary Comments 17.1

439

(5)

Illustrated Table 17.2 Typical Hats for Women: 1947--1960

444

(1)

Signs of Silhouette Changes: 1954--1960

444

(1)

Costume for Men: 1947--1960

444

(2)

Illustrated Table 17.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women: 1947--1960

446

(2)

Illustrated Table 17.4 1947 to 1960: Accessories

448

(2)

Clothing for Active Sports

450

(1)

Costume for Children: 1947--1960

451

(1)

Costume for Infants and Preschool Children

451

(1)

Costume Components for Girls

451

(1)

Illustrated Table 17.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1947--1960

452

(1)

Costume for Boys

452

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls

452

(1)

Summary

453

(1)

Themes

453

(1)

Visual Summary Table

454

(1)

Survival of New Look Styles

455

(1)

Notes

455

(1)

Selected Readings

455

(2)

The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge 1960--1980

457

(42)

Chronology

456

(2)

Historical Background

458

(1)

Europe and the Soviet Union

458

(1)

The Middle East

458

(1)

Africa and the End of Colonialism

458

(1)

The Emergence of Japan as an Economic Power

458

(1)

The United States

459

(2)

The Impact of Social Change on Fashion

461

(1)

Style Tribes and Street Styles

461

(1)

Some Style Tribes of 1960--1980

462

(1)

The Women's Movement

463

(1)

The Civil Rights Movement

463

(1)

Other Influences in Fashion

464

(1)

The White House Influences Styles

464

(1)

Political Events

464

(1)

Table 18.1 Some Media Influences on Fashion: 1960--1980

464

(1)

The Space Age

464

(1)

The Fine Arts

465

(1)

Ethnic Looks

466

(1)

The Changing Fashion Industry

466

(1)

Increasing Variety in Fashion Segments

467

(1)

Attempts to Curb Fashion Changes

467

(1)

Changes in Fashion Design

467

(1)

Contemporary Comments 18.1

468

(1)

Labeling and Licensing

469

(1)

Designers of Men's Clothing

469

(1)

Costume for Women: 1960--1980

469

(1)

Costume for Women: 1960--1974

469

(1)

Table 18.2 Influential Designers in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: 1960--1980

470

(3)

Illustrated Table 18.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1960--1980

473

(2)

Illustrated Table 18.2 Typical Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1960--1980

475

(5)

The Introduction of the Midi: 1970--1974

480

(1)

Changes in Costume for Women: 1974--1980

481

(1)

Illustrated Table 18.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women and Men, 1960--1980

482

(2)

Illustrated Table 18.4 1960--1980: Accessories

484

(1)

Contemporary Comments 18.2

485

(3)

Costume for Men: 1960--1980

488

(4)

Costume for Children: 1960--1980

492

(1)

Infants and Toddlers

492

(1)

Preschool and School-Age Children

492

(1)

Costume for Girls

492

(1)

Illustrated Table 18.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1960--1980

493

(1)

Costume for Boys

494

(1)

Costume for Boys and Girls

494

(1)

Summary

494

(1)

Themes

494

(1)

Visual Summary Table

495

(1)

Survivals of Styles of 1960--1980

496

(1)

Notes

496

(1)

Selected Readings

496

(3)

The Eighties and Nineties: Affluence, Information, and a New Millennium 1980--2003

499

(53)

Chronology

498

(2)

Historical Background: International

500

(1)

The Cold War Ends

500

(1)

Progress Continues Toward European Union

500

(1)

War and Peace

500

(1)

The Middle East

500

(1)

Japanese Economic Influences

501

(1)

Historical Background: United States

501

(1)

Political and Economic Developments

501

(1)

Gore--Bush Presidential Campaign

501

(1)

Energy and Environmental Issues

502

(1)

The Changing American Family

502

(1)

Changes in the Roles of Women

502

(1)

The Computer Revolution

503

(1)

The New Immigrants

503

(1)

AIDS

503

(1)

The Fashion Industry Undergoes Changes

504

(1)

Postmodernism

504

(1)

Elements of the Fashion System

504

(2)

Table 19.1 Some Style Tribes and Their Impact on Mainstream Fashion

506

(5)

Changes in the Production and Retailing of Apparel

511

(1)

Table 19.2 Some Prominent Designers Working in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: 1980--2003

512

(2)

Table 19.3 Some American Designers Who Became Prominent in the Period 1980--2003

514

(2)

Contemporary Comments 19.1

516

(1)

The Fashion Industry in the New Millennium

516

(1)

The Origins of Major Fashion Trends of 1980--2003

516

(1)

Retro Fashions

516

(1)

Various Social Groups Influence Fashion

517

(1)

Current Events

518

(1)

The Media as a Fashion Influence

519

(1)

Table 19.4 Some Media Influences on Fashion: 1980--2003

520

(1)

Influences from the Fine Arts

520

(1)

Demographic Changes

521

(1)

The Trend to Casual Dress

521

(1)

Fabrics Old and New

521

(2)

Sports

523

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 1980--1995

523

(3)

Contemporary Comments 19.2

526

(1)

Illustrated Table 19.1 Selected Undergarments for Women and Men: 1975--1996

527

(5)

Illustrated Table 19.2 Typical Hairstyles and Headcoverings for Women and Men: 1980--2003

532

(1)

Costume Components for Women: 1995--2003

533

(5)

Illustrated Table 19.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women, Men, and Children: 1980--2003

538

(1)

Illustrated Table 19.4 Accessories: 1980--2003

539

(1)

Costume for Men: 1974--2003

540

(1)

Costume Components for Men

540

(4)

Costume for Children: 1980--2003

544

(1)

Infants and Preschool-Age Children

544

(1)

Illustrated Table 19.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1980--2003

545

(2)

School-Aged Children: Trends Affecting Boys and Girls

547

(1)

Costume Components for Girls

547

(1)

Costume Components for Boys

547

(1)

Summary

548

(1)

Visual Summary Table

549

(1)

Notes

550

(1)

Selected Readings

550

(2)

Bibliography

552

(7)

Index

559

Amazon no longer offers textbook rentals. We do!

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

9781563673450

1563673452

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials

Write a Review

Amazon no longer offers textbook rentals. We do!

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress

9781563673450

1563673452

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials

Write a Review

Related Products