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Ivy Style : Radical Conformists

by: Edited by Patricia Mears; With contributions by Christopher Breward, G. Bruce Boyer, Christian Chensvold, Patricia Mears, Masafumi Monden, and Peter McNeil

ISBN: 9780300170559 | 0300170556

Format: Trade Book
Publisher: Yale University Press
Pub. Date: 10/16/2012

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Summary Author Biography

A history of "Ivy Style" in menswear, tracing the origins and diffusion of this enduring and classic fashion

Many of the most familiar sartorial images of the 20th century can be traced to the prestigious college campuses of America. The "Ivy League Look," or "Ivy Style," was once a cutting-edge look that for decades led the evolution of menswear. Far more than a classic way of dressing, Ivy Style spread beyond the rarified walls of Harvard, Yale, and Princeton to influence countless designers. Focusing on mensw... MOREear dating from the early 20th century through today, this elegant book traces the main periods of the look: the interwar years when classic items, such as tweed jackets and polo coats, were appropriated from the English man's wardrobe and redesigned by pioneering American firms such as Brooks Brothers and J. Press for young men at elite East Coast colleges; then from 1945 to the late 1960s, when the staples of Ivy Styleoxford cloth shirts, khaki pants, and penny loaferswere worn by a new, diverse group that included working-class students and jazz musicians; and finally the current revival of the Ivy look that began in the early 1980s. Ivy Stylecelebrates both high-profile proponents of the styleincluding the Duke of Windsor, Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, and Miles Daviswho made the look their own, and designers such as Ralph Lauren, J. McLaughlin, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Bastian, and Thom Browne, who have made it resonate with new generations of style enthusiasts.

"An in-depth study of Ivy style will be articulated this book, which will include essays by Patricia Mears, Dr. Peter McNeil, Dr. Christopher Breward, and Dr. Masafumi Monden. Dr. McNeil will analyze the style of the Duke of Windsor, arguably the most stylish man of the twentieth century, and the great impact his look had on Americans, especially as a young man in the 1920s. Dr. Breward will present a cross-cultural look at Ivy style as worn in the prestigious English universities of Oxford and Cambridge; he will also show how the look these young men cultivated would eventually be absorbed and re-interpreted in Hollywood films. Mr. Monden will write about the Ivy style craze that took hold in Japan from the mid-century to the present and its manifestation over the decades. Also included will be short excerpts by G. Bruce Boyer, a leading menswear writer and historian, and an interview with Richard Press by Christian Chensvold, founder of the Ivy Style blog. Mr. Boyer's 1985 publication, Elegance, contained chapters on madras, Harris Tweed, the camelhair polo coat, and other elements of Ivy style. The importance of this period publication is that it not only documents these fabrics and clothing items, but also captures the atmosphere of a time when Ivy style experienced a great resurgence in popularity. Mr. Chensvold is the founder and main contributor to the leading blog documenting menswear, particularly Ivy style. The main essay of the publication (by Patricia Mears) will present a historical overview of the Ivy look in the twentieth century. Not only will the issues of the style's enduring popularity and its role as a cutting edge influence be discussed, so too will the cultural and aspirational aspects of its creation"--

Patricia Mears is deputy director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

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