9780711228559

From the high-level route across the Pyrenees to the scenic Kerry Way in Ireland, from a descent through the Samaria Gorge in Crete to an ascent of Helvellyn in the Lake District, this book identifies the greatest walks in Europe: twelve of the best long-distance walks (taking from four to fifteen days to complete) and twelve extraordinary day walks. Among the long-distance walks are the incomparable GR20 in Corsica - a coast-to-coast journey through jagged peaks and deep, forested valleys; the ancient Ridgeway across English downland; the Jungfrau Horseshoe in Austria, which visits the best viewpoints of the Bernese Oberland's most famous alpine peaks; and the Kungsleden, or Royal Trail, through the Swedish wilderness. Short walks include the Snowdon Horseshoe, one of the finest mountain walks in Britain; a walk through the Verdon Gorge in France, Europe's equivalent of the Grand Canyon; and an excursion to the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the romantic Isle of Skye in Scotland.Richard Sale describes each route, explaining noteworthy features of all kinds and giving historical and cultural details as well as useful information about maps, statistics and the like. His lavish and spectacular photographs of landscapes and wildlife capture the walks' spirit and character. The book will be a boon and a delight to walkers, inspiring them to relive past adventures and tempting them to plan expeditions for the future.

Richard Sale is one of the world's leading Arctic scholars and explorers and a professional glaciologist. He has written widely on Polar history, exploration and wildlife and is the author of many books, including To the Ends of the Earth: The History of Polar Exploration which was the 2003 UK Outdoor Writers Guild Best Book on an Outdoor Theme, and The Gyrfalcon (Popatov and Sale), which was the US Wildlife Society's Book of the Year for 2006.

Long Walks

Alta Via 1, Dolomites, Italy

Bernese Oberland Horseshoe, Switzerland

GR5 France (but mentioning the Tour de Mont Blanc/Haute Route/Tour of the Matterhorn)

GR7 Andalucia, Spain

GR20, Corsica, France

HRP, France/Spain (but mentioning GR10 and GR11)

Kerry Way, Eire

Kungsleden, Sweden

Ridgeway, England

Stubai Horseshoe, Austria

Via Alpina, Bavaria, Germany

West Highland Way, Scotland

Day walks:

Campanile Basso, Brenta Dolomite, Italy

Cares Gorge, Picos de Europa, Spain

Edges of Helvellyn, Lake District, England

Gleann Mhor Horseshoe, Connemara, Eire

Inaccessible Pinnacle, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Konigsee and the Jenner, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria/Germany

Partnachklamm, Bavarian Alps, Germany

Samaria Gorge, Crete. Greece

Schynnige Platte, Switzerland

Sella Traverse, Val Gardena, Italy

Sentier Martel, Verdon Gorge, France

Snowdon Horseshoe, Wales

What is included with this book?

The New copy of this book will include any supplemental materials advertised. Please check the title of the book to determine if it should include any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.

The Used, Rental and eBook copies of this book are not guaranteed to include any supplemental materials. Typically, only the book itself is included. This is true even if the title states it includes any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.

Long Walk:Via Alpina, GermanyIn 1971 L'association Grande TraversÃ©e des Alpes was formed in France with the intention of integrating long-distance footpaths across the eight Alpine nations of Europe - Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Slovenia and Switzerland. The proposal suggested that such a venture would offer an additional way of promoting tourism to the Alps by offering new opportunities for local guides and accommodation; and it would be in harmony with the idea of sustainable development of the mountain environment. However, not until 1991 and the signing of the Alpine Convention by the Alpine nations was the idea of a unified cross-Alp route - the Via Alpina - able to really take shape. It did so with the waymarking of the Red Trail from Trieste, at the Italian-Slovenian border, through all eight Alpine nations to finish in Monaco, a distance of 1,600 miles (2,400km) in 161 linked stages. The route crosses national borders 44 times. The Red Trail was followed by a further four trails - Blue, Green, Purple and Yellow - which offered the chance to explore sections of the Alps. Each is less ambitious than the Red Trail, varying from the 13 stages of the Green Trail in Liechtenstein and Switzerland to the 66 stages of the Purple Trail, which explores the Julian Alps, Austria's mountains and the Bavarian Alps. Every walker will have favourite sections among the vast mileage of the various trails. Here I explore the two routes through Germany's Bavarian Alps, with a slight emphasis on the Red Trail which, though shorter, traverses marvellous mountain scenery close to the Austria-Germany border.The Purple TrailThe trail enters Germany from Austria as it crosses the Steinernen Meer (Stone Sea), a high limestone plateau to the south of Berchtesgaden. The plateau is a famous example of karst, a landscape where underground streams carve out passages and caves that make the area the most important in Germany for speleologists. Beyond the Stone Sea, with its isolated clumps of small pines, the route descends to the Karlingerhaus, one of the most beautifully positioned of all alpine huts, set in a mountain hollow beside the Funtensee; then it descends again into the Berchtesgaden National Park. Inevitably the Berchtesgaden Alps, which form a centrepiece of the National Park, are as famous for their Nazi connections as their mountain scenery and wildlife. The Kehlsteinhaus (nicknamed the Eagle's Nest by a French diplomat) still attracts many visitors, most of whom do not realize that it was built as a teahouse, a fiftieth birthday present for Adolf Hitler in 1939, and was not a Reich headquarters. The actual headquarters were situated at the foot of the mountain, at Obersalzberg: the buildings there have now all been demolished. After descending past the excellent Schrainbach waterfall the route reaches St BartholomÃ¤ on the western shore of the KÃ¶nigsee. The latter name is usually translated King's Lake, though many experts believe this to be incorrect, preferring Kuno's Lake, Kuno being a popular local Christian name. The village is named for the patron saint of farmers; the church in his honour is a marvellous onion-domed construction. West of the village rises the east face of the Watzmann which, at 5,900ft (1,800m), is the tallest mountain wall in the eastern Alps. The face is a hard climb, but one that attracts many climbers, over a hundred of whom have died attempting it. Perhaps the most famous of those who succeeded was Hermann Buhl, the legendary Austrian climber who climbed the face at night in mid-winter as a prelude to the 1953 Nanga Parbat expedition. Depending on the definition of an independent mountain, as opposed to a subsidiary peak on an extended ridge, the Watzmann is the second, third or fourth highest peak in Germany.The next section of the route is the easiest, as well as among the most interesting, as it involves travelling to the northern end of the KÃ¶nigsee by ferry, a relaxing voyage through stunning scenery. You disembark at KÃ¶nigsee village and head east through alpine meadow and upland forest along the spine of the peaks that form the northern boundary of the National Park. The section of the trail to the Neue Traunsteiner Hut follows, in part, the route of an old brine pipeline. The local area, including Bad Reichenhall, to the north, and Salzburg (salt town), to the east in Austria, were famous for the production of salt, some mines still being open to visitors. One of the easiest ways of transporting the salt from source was to dissolve it and allow the brine to flow downhill in pipes. Ramsau, which the route brushes past, was a centre for the inhalation of brine steam as a cure for chest problems. The Purple Trail now crosses into Austria, returning to Bavaria to head north to Ruhpolding, a pleasant village that was once a spa resort but is now more famous for its biathlon circuit, which has been home to several World Cup events, most recently in 2009. On again, the trail heads west on an undulating route through the Chiemgau Alps which rise between the Rivers Inn and Saalach. Here the high points offer marvellous views, the very best being from Hochfelln, (5,474ft/1,669m), which is accessible by Germany's second longest cable car from the village of you walker could be forgiven for using the Hochplatte chair lift, though this cuts out only the first stage of the climb to Hochplatte. There follows a terrific ridge traverse to the jagged Kampenwand (5,474ft/1,668m), the summit of which is reached by a scramble that requires a good head for heights (though the route actually bypasses the top). The descent from the summit has its moments too, a wire rope aiding progress to Steinling Alm before a superb section of undulating ridge walking, with fine alpine meadows and glorious views, reaches a descent through Austria to the Inn valley. Here you cross the river (which doubles as the national border) and the Munich-Innsbruck motorway to reach Oberaudorf. To the west of the Inn is a group of relatively low peaks usually named for the prominent lakes, the Tegernsee and Schliersee, which lie at their northern fringe. The peaks offer easy walking through alpine meadows and woodland, with only moderate climbing to a series of fine viewpoints. It is claimed that from the summit chapel of Seeon Alm (4,536ft/1,383m), a slight detour from the route, 200 named peaks are visible. You continue through larch forest, over Traithen (1,852m), descend, and then climb to the Rotwandhaus refuge (5,789ft/1,765m). The trail in this area needs care, but the views are sensational: both the Berchtesgaden and AllgÃ¤u Alps are visible - the first and last blocks of the Bavarian Alps to be climbed along the Purple route. The mountain railway to Taubenstein allows a speedy descent to the Spitzingsee, a lovely, forest-shrouded lake which is the centrepiece of an important winter sports area. The walking is easier now, through alpine meadow with one last climb before a descent to Sutten. Beyond, there is fine woodland walking until the rather more demanding climb to Risserkogel (5,989ft/1,826m). From the summit there is a marvellous view north to Tegernsee, usually enhanced by the hang gliders who regularly use the nearby peak of Wallberg, easily reached on the Wallbergbahn. You descend along woodland paths to Kreuth, a tiny village famous for the spring of healing water which bubbles up a short distance to the south at Wildbad Kreuth. Legend has it that the spring was discovered by a hunter who had wounded a deer and, after following it, discovered the animal using spring water to bathe its wounds. It would be good to report that the hunter spared the deer in thanks for the find, but the fate of the animal is not recorded. There is more woodland walking, but with occasional fine views heading west to Lenggries, which has an interesting private museum of local natural history. Those interested in the local wildlife will enjoy both it and the next stage of the walk, as the Benediktenwand cliffs are now home to alpine ibex (steinbock), which have become relatively tame and so allow a reasonably close approach. Those not keen on exposed terrain will be less thrilled, as the cliff section requires a sure foot and a head for heights. Although the walking into Garmisch-Partenkirchen is now straightforward and, usually, through alpine meadow, there are further exposed sections on the descent into the Loisachtal valley, some of them with chains to aid progress. Garmisch and Partenkirchen were two towns until 1935, when Hitler forced the mayors to accept combining in the run-up to the winter Olympics of 1936. Today most Germans and visitors refer to the combined town as Garmisch, to the aggravation of the population of Partenkirchen, the more picturesque of the two. The town is famous for its New Year's Day ski jumping event (one of the Four Hills' competition) and as a winter sports centre. It hosted the ski world championships in1978, and will do so again in 2011. The Purple Trail continues west into the Ammer Alps, and then heads north to Linderhof, where Ludwig II of Bavaria constructed a sumptuous palace (or rather enlarged an existing building) in the style of Versailles. Ludwig is today perhaps best known as the patron of Richard Wagner and his palace is one of the foremost tourist attractions in Bavaria. In the next section of the walk, after further alpine walking, you pass the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau before the trail drops down into Schwangau and FÃ¼ssen. The fairy-tale appearance of Schloss Neuschwanstein (the New Swan Stone Castle), also built by Ludwig II, has led to its being used as the model for castles in several theme parks, including the original Disneyland in the USA. Hohenschwangau Castle was built by Ludwig's father, Maximilian II; it was Ludwig's childhood home and his main home after his father's death. In the early 1950s the two castles were partially responsible for travel agents defining the road from FÃ¼ssen to WÃ¼rzburg as the Romantische StraÃŸe (Romantic Road), as it passed much that was deemed to define German culture. The road itself is much older, having been the Roman Via Claudia Augusta. Schwangau is a cute little village, often overlooked by travellers heading for FÃ¼ssen. At 2,650ft (808m), FÃ¼ssen is Bavaria's highest town, and has much to admire. The church of St Magnus has a tenth-century fresco and a relic bone of the saint, the town's patron saint, who is celebrated annually during a week-long festival which includes the sale of Magnus wine, production of which is limited to just 500 bottles. From FÃ¼ssen the Purple Trail climbs to the Austrian-German border, and you follow this, with the aid of a chain on one difficult section, to Falkenstein (4,156ft/1,267m), the ruins of Germany's oldest castle. Built in the thirteenth century, the castle was ruinous by the nineteenth century. It was bought by Ludwig II, who intended to build another fairy-tale castle on the ruins but died before work could start. There are terrific views from the ruin before the descent to Pfronten. The trail now enters its final section, climbing through woodland to craggy Aggenstein (6,517ft/1,987m) on the national border, and detouring briefly through Austria before reaching the magnificent AllgÃ¤u Alps close to the Gaishorn (7,370ft/2,247m). From there an occasionally devious path follows the ridge line (which doubles as the national border) before descending west to the Prinz-Luitpold refuge, where it joins the Red Trail. You now follow the Red Trail (more or less: see below) to Oberstdorf. The Red TrailThe Bavarian section of the Red Trail is much shorter, but makes its way through sensational country, more than making up in quality for what it lacks in length. It enters Germany at the Meiler refuge (7,790ft/2,375m), which you reach after a climb, up steep scree, of over 3,900ft (1,200m) through fabulous rock scenery, at the end of a long day that began at Scharnitz, an Austrian Tyrol village above which looms the rock architecture of the Karwendel. The walk from the refuge is a welcome relief after that long first day (which can be split by staying overnight in the Leutasch valley), descending initially to the Schachen refuge, beyond which there are views over the Reintal and Zugspitze. The descent now continues more steeply, in part on an engineered path, and then through woods to the Bock refuge (3,451ft/1,052m); then it climbs gently through the Reintal with towering peaks on both sides to reach the Reintalanger refuge (4,480ft/1,366m).From the refuge the walk crosses the Partnach stream, which flows down the Reintal, and then the source of the stream itself as it climbs to the Knorr refuge (6,727ft/2,051m). Ahead now is Zugspitze, at 9,715ft (2,962m) the highest peak in Germany. You can climb it as a detour - either all the way or using the cable car from Zugspitzplatt - but the Red Trail turns south along a contouring path to reach the national border at Gatterl (6,639ft/2,024m). Looking towards Zugspitze from here the eye is drawn to the high, arid plateau, a rock desert, of Zugspitzplatt. After a short climb to FeldernjÃ¶chl (6,708ft/2,045m) there is a descent to Seebenalm, where there is a view east to the Karwendel and the high peaks around the Grossglockner, and south to the Stubai and Otztal Alps. The descent passes a Pestkapelle (Plague Chapel), one of many raised in the nineteenth century when plague ravaged Austria; with country people reluctant to visit churches in local towns and villages, as had been the custom, the chapels allowed a few families to gather and worship in relative safety. From the chapel the trail climbs steeply to the Coburger refuge. The next two stages of the trail are westwards through Austria, beginning with a descent into Biberweir; this requires care, particularly the final section, which is both steep and can be treacherous. Then there is a steady climb through woodland to Grubig Alm and the Wolfratshauser refuge (5,740ft/1,750m). The second stage starts with a short climb, and then undulates gently to the Rotlech reservoir, hidden in trees and with views to rocky peaks. You continue downhill to Weissenbach in the Lech valley. The town is delightfully positioned, spreading along the river and ringed by high peaks. In medieval times Weissenbach was an important storage depot on the salt route to western Austria, its importance giving it the right to hold a market, so that it became an important local centre. Today it is renowned for its annual carnival as well as being at the heart of the Tiroler Lech Nature Park, which covers the river from Steeg to Vils and also includes some side valleys. The park was set up to protect the river valley and its wildlife from overdevelopment, and includes cycleways and footpaths to allow visitors to explore a beautiful stretch of river. The trail follows the Lech from the town, and then bears west away from it, staying in the Lech Park as it heads towards the AllgÃ¤u Alps. The view is dominated by the Hochvogel (8,505ft/2,593m). Soon the gentle valley walking is replaced by steeper terrain on the climb to Bockkarscharte, north of Hochvogel. Here you re-enter Germany, descending steeply to reach the Prinz-Luitpold refuge and the Purple Trail. Both trails now follow a good path westwards to a junction below Himmeleck (7,055ft/2,151m), where they part company. The Red Trail turns left to follow an eroded path that descends straightforwardly into Oberstdorf, a rather unsatisfactory end to the Bavarian section of the route. Far better is to follow the Purple Trail, which turns right along a fine mountain path, and then using a cable for aid you cross a rock face below the Lachenkopf (6,931ft/2,113m) to reach the Edmund-Probst refuge. From here you can choose to avoid the final descent into Oberstdorf by using the cable car. Fact fileTravelBy air: Flights are available from the UK to Salzburg and Innsbruck in Austria, and to Munich in Germany. By rail: Salzburg and Munich are linked to all major European cities by rail. From Salzburg a line runs to Berchtesgaden. You can also reach Berchtesgaden, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberstdorf by rail from Munich. By road: Motorways link Munich with Salzburg and Innsbruck, and there are good roads deep into many of the valleys of the Bavarian Alps.Maps and guidesThere is, at present, no guide to either the Red or Purple Via Alpina Trails, though it is anticipated that these will become available over the next few years. The Via Alpina website (via-alpina.org) has a series of pdfs that may be downloaded, giving details of the suggested daily stages. The pdfs include the route profile and map (rudimentary, but adequate for tracing on the relevant Kompass 1:50,000 map), together with section times and the Kompass map number. There is also a brief description of the stage, but this is too brief to be of any real value, so you are left to explore, which adds to the sense of adventure (though may not be to everyone's taste). The following Kompass Wander-, Bike- und Skitourenkarte 1:50,000 maps are essential and cover the entire trails (larger-scale maps are, of course, also available):Purple Trail: Travelling from east to west (as in the text above), nos. 14, 10, 8, 6 and 4.Red Trail: Again travelling from east to west, nos. 5, 4 and 3.WaymarkingThe routes are marked frequently with the standard red and white stripes. There are also frequent Via Alpina signs, with the appropriate colour tag, fixed to standard signposts. In general signage is excellent.AccommodationThe idea of the Via Alpina is stage walking between mountain refuges. However, some stages are long and involve considerable climbing, and may tax the average walker. That said, if you prepare properly, using the website pdfs and the relevant maps, you can avoid camping. Those who prefer camping should note that wild camping is banned in Germany. There are a number of excellent campsites in Bavaria, always accessible by road and so therefore usually in valleys, which can be used to split long stages.EquipmentEach of the Bavarian trails is a high mountain route requiring good equipment, particularly excellent wet weather equipment. The mountains can also be cold, so be prepared for chilly weather even in the summer. There are no glacier crossings, so ice axe and crampons are not necessary, but, as always, hard, snowy winters can leave snow in hollows and gullies well into the summer, so caution is required. If in doubt, turn back - there is always tomorrow. ClimateBavaria has a central European climate. This means cold winters and hot summers, but, as usual, mountains influence the climate. In general, in summer the AllgÃ¤u Alps are wetter than those to the east. HazardsNone, other than those usually associated with high mountain terrain. However, there are sections of eroded path that can be very slippery during or after wet weather and these require care. There are also sections that use in situ cables to aid progress across difficult, exposed terrain. These can present problems for walkers without sure feet and a head for heights. National parks and wildlifeWalkers on the Via Alpina will soon become familiar with the change in tree species with altitude, the dwarf mountain pine taking over from other conifers above about 6,000ft (about 1,800m). The alpine meadows will be awash with flowers - gentians, orchids - in spring, while you may see edelweiss in remote areas. It is more often seen in the AllgÃ¤u Alps. Please remember that picking edelweiss is forbidden. The Berchtesgaden National Park, the only German Alpine National Park, was established in 1978 and covers 82 sq. miles (210 sq. km) of forest mountains and deep gorges, as well as less rugged country. Over fifty species of mammal have been identified in the park; those you are most likely to see include marmot, chamois, red deer and alpine ibex (steinbock). The latter are unlikely to have been natives of the area: the present stock was introduced in the 1930s for hunting. They were never very numerous and the park now holds only sixty to eighty animals. More rarely seen park mammals include both pine and beech martens. Over a hundred nesting bird species have been recorded. Most visitors hope to catch sight of the elusive golden eagle, but other unusual species include the northern goshawk, hazel and black grouse, and capercaillie, as well as a good collection of ducks and waders.Chamois and marmot can be seen on other sections of the trails: chamois are often seen in the AllgÃ¤u Alps. Ibex are frequently seen near the Benediktenwand, as mentioned above. On damp mornings, you may also spot either of the common European salamanders. Fire salamanders, which are widespread across Europe, are usually seen at lower altitudes, while alpine salamanders, found throughout the Alps, prefer higher ground.

Amazon no longer offers textbook rentals. We do!

The Great Walks of Europe

The Great Walks of Europe

0711228558

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials

Excerpts