A safari in northern Botswana takes the traveller to a wilderness populated almost exclusively by wildlife. Here are the predators and their prey; here, too, are the elephants, the hippos and the astonishing birdlife of the Okavango Delta. This fourth edition of Bradt's Botswana Safari Guide provides unrivalled coverage of the region's wildlife, environment and history, as well as a thorough evaluation of when, where and how to go. The guide, written by an expert author, focuses on the country’s most popular areas, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari and Chobe deserts.

Chris McIntyre is the managing director of the specialist tour operator Expert Africa, he travels frequently to Africa researching and updating his Bradt guides.

Introduction ix

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 History and Economy 3

History 3, Government and administration 17, Economy 17

Chapter 2 People and Culture 21

Population overview 21, Social groups or ‘tribes’ 21, Language 38, Religion 38, Education 39, Culture 39

Chapter 3 The Natural Environment 45

Physical environment 45, Flora and fauna 55, Conservation 61

Chapter 4 Planning and Preparation 67

When to go and highlights 67, Organising and booking your trip 75, Red tape 89, Getting there and away 91, Money and budgeting 94, What to take 98, Getting around 103, Accommodation 107, Food and drink 108, Crafts and curios 109, Communications 110, The media 111, Travelling positively 112

Chapter 5 Health and Safety 115

Health 115, Safety 128

Chapter 6 Into the Wilds 133

Driving 133, Bushcamping 137, Walking in the bush 141, Boating 145, Minimum impact 147

PART TWO THE GUIDE 149

Chapter 7 Maun 151

Getting there and away 151, Orientation 155, Getting around 155, Where to stay 158, Where to eat and drink 166, Entertainment and nightlife 167, Shopping 167, Other practicalities 169, What to see and do 171, Beyond Maun: getting organised 174, The road north of Maun: to Moremi and Chobe 179

Chapter 8 Kasane and the Northeast 181

Kasane 181, Around Kasane 198, South of Kasane 202

Chapter 9 Chobe National Park and Forest Reserve 205

Background information 205, Getting organised 211, Chobe riverfront 212, Chobe Forest Reserve 221, Liambezi area 222, Driving from Kasane to Savuti 222, Ngwezumba Pans 227, Ghoha Hills 228, Savuti 229, Driving south from Savuti 238, Linyanti 239

Chapter 10 Linyanti, Selinda and Kwando Reserves 243

Background information 243, Linyanti Concession (NG15) 244, Linyanti and Saile Enclave (CH1) 249, Selinda Concession (NG16) 250, Kwando Concession (NG14) 254

Chapter 11 The Okavango Delta – Moremi Game Reserve 259

Background information 259, The Mopane Tongue 265, The private areas of Moremi (NG28) 283

Chapter 12 The Okavango Delta – Private Reserves around Moremi 293

Mapula (NG12) 296, Khwai Development Trust (NG18 and NG19) 297, Kwara (NG20) 298, Xugana, Camp Okavango and Shinde (NG21) 302, Vumbura and Duba Plains (NG22 and NG23) 306, Community area (NG24) 311, Jao, Kwetsani, Jacana, Tubu and Pelo (NG25) 312, Abu, Seba and Macatoo (NG26) 318, Pom Pom, Kanana and Nxabega (NG27A) 322, Delta, Oddballs’, Gunn’s and Eagle Island (NG27B) 327, Xigera, Mombo and Chief’s Camp (NG28) 333, Gubanare, Xudum, Xaranna and OHS (NG29 and NG30) 333, Chitabe and Sandibe (NG31) 339, Stanley’s, Baines’ and budget mokoro trips (NG32) 343, Sankuyo Tshwaragano Management Trust (NG33 and NG34) 348, Santawani Partnership (NG33) 351, Mababe (NG41) and Mankwe (NG43) 351

Chapter 13 The Okavango Panhandle and Northwest Kalahari 353

The Panhandle 353, The Delta’s western fringes 366, The northwest Kalahari 373

Chapter 14 The Kalahari’s Great Salt Pans 395

Background information 395, Getting organised 402, Nxai Pan National Park 403, Makgadikgadi Pans 410, Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 424, Towns around the pans 432

Chapter 15 The Central Kalahari 439

Background information 439, Practical information 444, What to see and do 454

Chapter 16 Livingstone and the Victoria Falls 459

Livingstone 459, What to see and do 470

Appendix 1 Wildlife Guide 477

Appendix 2 Language 501

Appendix 3 Further information 504

Index 512