9781607740537

In his eagerly awaited first cookbook, award-winning chef Charles Phan from San Francisco's Slanted Door restaurant introduces traditional Vietnamese cooking to home cooks by focusing on fundamental techniques and ingredients. Now people can enjoy the bold, spicy, fresh flavors of Vietnamese food at home with this authoritative reference from celebrated chef Charles Phan. Organized around the major techniques-frying, steaming, braising and stir-frying-V ietnamese Home Cookingincludes 125 recipes such as Gulf Shrimp and Baby Bok Choy Stir-Fry, Crispy Stuffed Quail with Glass Noodles, and Green Papaya Salad, plus master recipes for stocks and sauces, a photo ID guide to ingredients, and a chapter on Vietnamese Street food. Infused with the author's stories and experience, from his early days as a refugee to his current culinary success, Vietnamese Home Cookingis a personal and accessible guide to authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

TERM	PRICE	DUE
SEMESTER	$20.79	Mar 20
QUARTER	$19.75	Jan 02
SHORT TERM	$18.71	Dec 12

Charles Phan is the executive chef and owner of The Slanted Door family of restaurants, and the author of IACP award-winning book, Vietnamese Home Cooking. He received the James Beard Award for Best Chef California in 2004, and in 2011, was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food in America. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and their three children.

Preface

Introduction

Soup
Pork Stock
Chicken Stock
Beef Stock
Pho Gá: Chicken Noodle Soup
Pho Bò: Beef Noodle Soup
Wonton Noodle Soup
Bún Bò Hue
Bánh Canh: Pig’s Knuckle Soup
Cháo: Chicken Rice Porridge
Simple Fish Soup
Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup
Crab and Corn Soup

Street Food
Green Papaya Salad with Rau Ram, Peanuts, and Crispy Shallots
Beef Jerky
Pork and Shrimp Spring Rolls
Chinese Doughnuts
Bánh Mì
Mama’s Meatballs
Lemongrass Pork
Halibut Vermicelli with Dill and Pineapple-Anchovy Sauce
Bánh Xèo: Crepe with Pork and Shrimp
Bánh Bèo: Steamed Rice Cakes with Mung Beans and Shrimp
Bánh Cuón: Rice Crepes with Pork and Mushrooms

Steaming
Daikon Rice Cake with Spicy Soy
Black Bean–Glazed Pork Spareribs
Bánh Nam: Banana Leaf–Wrapped Rice Dumplings
Black Cod with Lily Buds and Dried Shiitake Mushrooms
Chicken Steamed Buns
Vegetarian Steamed Buns
Pork Steamed Buns
Ground Pork with Salted Fish
Hue Rice Dumplings
Lotus Leaf–Wrapped Sticky Rice
Steamed Whole Fish with Ginger, Scallions, and Soy

Braising
Chicken with Lily Buds and Dried Shiitake Mushrooms
Chicken Curry
Duck Legs with Bamboo, Virginia Ham, and Shiitake Mushrooms
Soy-Braised Pork Belly with Ginger and Star Anise
Catfish Clay Pot
Pork Clay Pot with Young Coconut Juice
Lo Soi Braised Pork
Lemongrass Beef Stew
Caramelized Lemongrass Shrimp
Braised Branzino with Tomatoes and Pickled Mustard Greens
Yuba Dumplings with Miso Broth

Stir-Frying
Broccoli with Beech Mushrooms and Roasted Chile Paste
Bok Choy with Baby Shiitake Mushrooms
Spinach with Caramelized Shallots
Gulf Shrimp and Sing Qua Stir-Fry
Squid with Tomato and Pickled Mustard Greens
Black Bass with Yellow Chives and Bean Sprouts
Scrambled Eggs and Pork
Water Spinach with Shrimp Paste
Lemongrass Chicken
Bo Luc Lac: Shaking Beef
Beef Bavette with Tomatoes and Thick-Cut Potatoes
Fried Rice
Wok-Fried Noodles with Beef and Bok Choy
Crispy Egg Noodles with Seafood
Mix-and-Match Wok-Fried Noodles

Grilling
Grilled Pork Chops with Sweet Lemongrass Marinade
Pork-Stuffed Squid with Spicy Tomato Sauce
Clams with Crispy Pork Belly and Thai Basil
Grilled Whole Fish
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce
Grilled Five-Spice Chicken with Tamarind Sauce
Spicy Mango Salad
Pomelo Salad
Rice Clay Pot with Chicken and Chinese Sausage
Roasted Eggplant and Leek Salad
Vermicelli (Bun) Bowls
Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Cilantro, Scallions, and Lime
Simple Grilled Shrimp

Frying
Imperial Rolls
Sweet Potato and Shrimp Fritters
Squid with Pineapple and Toasted Garlic
Fragrant Crispy Duck with Watercress
Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings
Lacquered Quail with Sichuan Cucumber Pickles
Hoi An Wontons with Spicy Tomato Sauce
Sweet and Sour Fish
Turmeric-and-Beer-Battered Soft-Shell Crab

Glossary

Ingredients

Condiments

Acknowledgements

Conversion Chart

Index

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When I was a kid, a cook would set up a green canvas army tent behind my family’s general store in Ðà Lat. He made only one dish: crispy egg noodles with seafood. I would go there frequently after school (we lived over the store) while I was waiting for my parents to finish work. I’d sit on a low stool waiting for my order, listening to the sizzle of liquid hitting the hot wok and the monsoon rains battering the tent, the air thick with the smell of browning noodles. It’s one of my first food memories.
Vietnam is full of snackers who are never far from a quick bite. Because the country is lacking in entry-level jobs, and because there is a huge market for food cooked outside the home (most home kitchens are poorly equipped or very cramped), people start their own ad hoc businesses, including food stalls. The entrepreneurial spirit drives cooks to the streets, where they master the art of making a single dish: sticky rice, banana fritters, green papaya salad. The cooks employ every technique—deep-frying in jury-rigged pots set over open fires, stir-frying in big woks over high flames, steaming in giant lidded bamboo baskets balanced atop rickety propane burners—to make snacks that are served and eaten on the spot. Even talented home cooks don’t make these dishes at home. Yes, space is at a premium, but an attitude persists too: why try to make something at home that you can so easily and cheaply purchase from someone who has perfected the recipe? Since we don’t have the luxury of a steamed-bun vendor or stand on every corner here in the United States, making these snacks at home is the only option.
Unlike the subsequent chapters in this book, which explain a single technique, the unifying element of the recipes in this chapter is that they’re some of the most popular foods that you’ll find sold from stalls in cities and small towns throughout Vietnam.
Street food offers a direct connection between the cook and the eater. Part of what makes the food so appealing is that it’s superfresh. You’re literally watching the dishes being made, start to finish, in front of your eyes. It is Vietnam’s answer to fast food, only it is far more interesting, varied, and well prepared.
Unlike a full-service restaurant, street vendors usually make only one or two items. That means they’ve spent their entire careers perfecting their recipe, customizing their equipment, sourcing the best ingredients. After trying an excellent bite from a vendor, I’ve often asked for the recipe. Not a single cook has ever given me one. The recipe, and the practiced technique, is as much a commodity as the food they’re selling you.
The three common denominators that help identify the best vendors: they’re usually stationary, serve a single dish or one ingredient prepared in a few different ways, and they’re always crowded.
In Vietnam, the foods you buy from street vendors aren’t categorized as hors d’oeuvres, appetizers, or main courses, though some items are traditionally served at certain times of the day. Rice porridge (page 20) and soup are found in the morning and are rarely eaten after lunch. Sweets stalls might open for only a few hours each evening. A soup vendor might pop up for a few hours during the morning commute, then pack up until the next day.
We serve many of the recipes in this chapter at The Slanted Door, where they’re some of the most popular items on the menu. Those favored Vietnamese street foods inspired the first dishes we served when we opened in 1995, and they have remained on the menu ever since. Some, like the fresh spring rolls (page 44), are easy. Others, like the filled rice-paper packets called (page 62), require some practice to perfect. As the Vietnamese vendors know well, mastery comes only from repetition. I think you’ll find the flavors so compelling that the labor will be worth it. Once you get the hang of a few of these recipes, you’ll probably find yourself making them a lot. Without the chaos, the heat, and the noise, it’ll never be exactly like eating on the streets of Vietnam, but the food will still be delicious.

Pickled Carrots

These quick pickles are the perfect foil for rich foods. They are often served alongside fried things and are always piled on top of meat-filled bánh mì sandwiches. If you like, use julienned daikon (see page 204) in addition to carrots.

• ¼ cup distilled white vinegar
• ¼ cup sugar
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ cup peeled and finely julienned carrots

Makes ½ cup

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt and stir until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Add the carrots and let stand for at least 20 minutes before serving. If not using right away, cover and refrigerate for up to a week. Drain the carrots well before before using.

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Vietnamese Home Cooking [A Cookbook]

Vietnamese Home Cooking [A Cookbook]

1607740532

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials

Excerpts

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