This is the most comprehensive, user-friendly trekking guide to Peru available. Peru’s mountains offer the most varied and dramatic treks in South America with the added attraction of Pre-Columbian ruins along the way. Celebrating 40 years of Bradt, this unique guidebook is based on the Peru section of the very first Bradt guide.  All the original treks have been re-walked and new off-the-beaten-track routes added. Ideal for both backpackers and those in an organized group, it describes over 50 mountain treks and day walks with background information and travelers’ tales.  Special boxes throughout the text cover topics from guinea pigs to trekking with children.

Hilary Bradt is the founder of Bradt Travel Guides and led treks to Peru every year for 15 years.

Introduction ix

PART ONE G ENERAL INFORMATION          1

Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3

History 3, People: past and present 6, Language 11

Chapter 2 N atural History and Conservation 17

Geology 17, Geography 18, Climate 19, Flora 20,

Fauna 25, Protected areas of Peru 35, Field

guides 42

Chapter 3 Practical Information 45

When to visit 45, Backpacking or organised

trekking? 49, Tour operators 50, Tourist

information 51, Red tape 52, Getting there and

away 52, What to take 53, Money and budgeting 59,

Getting around 61, Accommodation 63, Eating

and drinking 65, Handicrafts 70, Photography 71,

Media and communications 72, Business 74,

Volunteering and giving something back 74

Chapter 4 B ackpacking and Trekking: Deciding What’s Best for You 77

Where to go: an overview 77, Backpacking or

trekking? 80, Organised trekking: choosing the

right company 80, Trekking: the experience 82,

Backpacking: the experience 86, Village etiquette

for independent backpackers 91, Minimum

impact 93

Chapter 5 H ealth and Safety 96

Health 96, Safety 107

PART TWO           TR EKKING AND BACKPACKING GUIDE 113

Chapter 6 Lima 115

History 115, Getting there and away 115, Getting

around 119, Where to stay 121, Where to eat

and drink 122, Entertainment and nightlife 124,

Useful addresses 125, Tourist information 127,

Maps 128

Chapter 7 Cajamarca and Chachapoyas Regions 129

Cajamarca town and region 129, Cumbe Mayo

to San Pablo 133, The Chachapoyas region 136,

Exploring the ruins around Chachapoyas 139, The

waterfalls 146

Chapter 8 T he Cordilleras: Negra, Blanca and Huayhuash 151

The cordilleras: an overview 151, Parque Nacional

Huascaran 154, Huaraz 158, Caraz 166, Trekking

and backpacking overview 167, Trekking routes

in the Cordillera Blanca 171, Trekking in the

Cordillera Huayhuash 198

Chapter 9 T he Central Andes 211

Huancayo 211, The Cordillera Central 217, Other

places of interest in the region 221, Trekking the

Inca Royal Road: Castillo via Huanuco Viejo to

Yanahuanca 224

Chapter 10 Cusco and the Vicinity 231

History of the Incas 231, Cusco 233, Hiking,

trekking and backpacking 251, Hiking routes

around Cusco 254, The Valley of Lares 271,

Ollantaytambo and around 278

Chapter 11 T he Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota 283

The Vilcabamba region 283, Aguas Calientes

(Machu Picchu Pueblo) 285, The Inca Trail 290,

Salkantay hikes 298, Other treks in the Cordillera

Vilcabamba 310, The Vilcanota region 321

Chapter 12 T he Arequipa Area 343

Arequipa 343, Climbing the volcanoes 350, The

Colca Canyon 354, Trekking in the Colca

Canyon 357

Appendix 1 Language 362

Appendix 2 List of Major hikes and treks 364

index 369