A new edition of the first travel guide to cover the practical aspects of travelling to and around North Korea -- a country which both intrigues and concerns the international community. Everything a genuine traveller needs is here, including red tape and security issues, access from South Korea and Beijing, routes outwards from Pyongyang, and opportunities for excursions into unspoilt countryside. Altogether a fascinating insight into the culture and history of a country that currently exists in virtual isolation from the rest of the world.

Robert Willoughby is a journalist who has lived and worked in the US, Russia, Vietnam and China and is the author of the Bradt guide to North Korea.

PART ONE                       GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1    Background Information 3

Geography 3, Climate 6, Natural history and conservation 6, History 8, Economy 50, People 62, Language 67, Religion 68, Culture 71

Chapter 2                         Practical Information 77

When to visit 77, Highlights 77, Suggested itineraries 79, Tour operators 79, Red tape 82, Embassies and consulates 83, Getting there and away 85, Health 89, Safety 93, What to take 93, Money 93, Getting around 94, Accommodation 95, Eating and drinking 96, Nightlife 97, Shopping 98, Photography 100, Media and communications 100, Time zone 103, Cultural etiquette 103

PART TWO THE GUIDE 107

Chapter 3    Pyongyang 108

Geography 109, History 109, Getting there and away 116, Getting around 116, Where to stay 122, Where to eat and drink 124, Entertainment and nightlife 127, Shopping 127, Other practicalities 127, What to see and do 128

Chapter 4    Pyongyang to Sariwon, Kaesong and Panmunjom 153

Sariwon 153, Kaesong 158, Panmunjom and the DMZ 165

Chapter 5    Nampo, Mount Kuwol and Haeju 171

Nampo 172, Mount Kuwol 177, Haeju 179

Chapter 6                          North from Pyongyang: Pyongsong and Mount Myohyang 184

Pyongsong 184, Myohyangsan 187

Chapter 7    East Coast Central: Pyongyang to Wonsan 197

Wonsan 197

Chapter 8    Wonsan to Mount Kumgang, or Kumgangsan 204

Kumgang flora and fauna 204, Kumgangsan 205

Chapter 9    East Coast to Tanchon 215

Hamhung 215, Hungnam 218, Tanchon 219, Komdok 220

Chapter 10                          Northernmost Corner 223

Chongjin 226, Chilbosan 229, Rajin and Sonbong, collectively known as Rason 232, Hoeryong 239

Chapter 11                          Mount Paektu/Paektusan 243

Flora and fauna 245, Getting there and away 245, Where to stay 246, What to see and do 246

Chapter 12                          The Border with China and Beyond 252

Sinuiju 252, Dandong 256, South from Dandong 262, North from Dandong 262

Appendix 1                          Language 271              Appendix 2         Further Information 274                    Index   284