The south coast of Mozambique is exceptionally beautiful – truly the archetype of palm-lined tropical beach nirvana – as well as boasting snorkelling, diving and game fishing to rank with the very best in the world' enthuses author Philip Briggs. This sixth edition of Mozambique leads intrepid travellers from the undiscovered north eastern provinces to the coral island of Ilha de Moçambique, with its imposing fortress. Relax on a dhow, experience a sailing safari, admire Portuguese colonial Beira or follow suggested walks around the capital Maputo. With in-depth coverage of wildlife, culture and history, and practical advice on accommodation for all budgets, the Bradt guide leads the way.

Philip Briggs is a world renowned expert on Africa and is the author of 14 Bradt guides over a 20 year association.

Introduction vii

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 Background Information 3

Geography 3, Climate 4, History 4, Government and politics 19, Economy 19, People 22, Language 23, Religion 23, Culture 24

Chapter 2 Natural History 27

Vegetation 27, Mammals 28, Birds 32, Reptiles 34, Marine life 35

Chapter 3 Practical Information 39

When to visit 39, Highlights 39, Tourist information 40, Tour operators 40, Red tape 42, Getting there and away 43, Crime and safety 46, Women travellers 48, Gay travellers 49, Travellers with disabilities 49, Travelling with children 49, What to take 49, Money 51, Budgeting 52, Getting around 53, Accommodation 57, Eating and drinking 59, Public holidays 60, Shopping 61, Photography 62, Media and communications 62, Responsible tourism 63, Travelling positively 64

Chapter 4 Health 67

Preparations 67, Medical facilities 71, Common medical problems 72

Chapter 5 Diving and Snorkelling 78

Choosing an operator 78, Preparations before diving 78, During the dive 81, Snorkelling 84

PART TWO SOUTHERN MOZAMBIQUE 87

Chapter 6 Maputo 91

History 94, Getting there and away 96, Getting around 97, Where to stay 98, Where to eat and drink 102, Nightlife 107, Safety and hassles 108, Entertainment 109, Shopping 110, Other practicalities 112, What to see and do 115, City walks 116, Day trips from Maputo 119

Chapter 7 Maputaland 122

Inhaca Island 122, Catembe 127, Bela Vista and Salamanga 127, Maputo Special Reserve 128, Ponta Mamoli and Malongane 130, Ponta do Ouro 133

Chapter 8 The Limpopo Valley and Coast South of Inhambane 137

Marracuene and surrounds 137, Bilene 138, Limpopo National Park 140, Xai-Xai 143, Beaches around Xai-Xai 148, Northeast of Xai-Xai 149

Chapter 9 Inhambane and Surrounds 151

Inhambane 151, Maxixe 158, Beaches around Inhambane 160, North of Inhambane 170

Chapter 10 Vilankulo, Inhassoro and Bazaruto National Park 173

Vilankulo 173, Inhassoro 181, Bazaruto National Park 185

PART THREE CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 191

Chapter 11 Beira 195

History 195, Getting there and away 196, Orientation and getting around 197, Where to stay 197, Where to eat and drink 200, Other practicalities 204, What to see and do 205

Chapter 12 Chimoio and the Manica Highlands 209

Chimoio 211, Lake Chicamba 216, Manica 217, Penhalonga 220, Chimanimani National Reserve 221

Chapter 13 Gorongosa and the Caia Road 225

Gorongosa National Park 225, Mount Gorongosa 231, The EN1 from Inchope to Caia 233

Chapter 14 Tete 238

Tete 240, Around Tete 245

PART FOUR NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE 251

Chapter 15 Zambézia 255

Quelimane 255, The Quelimane–Nampula Road 262, The Western Highlands 268

Chapter 16 Nampula 277

Getting there and away 278, Where to stay 279, Where to eat and drink 280, Other practicalities 280, What to see and do 281, Around Nampula 282

Chapter 17 Ilha de Moçambique and Surrounds 287

History 289, Getting there and away 291, Where to stay 291, Where to eat and drink 294, Shopping 295, Other practicalities 295, Exploring Ilha de Moçambique 296, Mossuril Bay 302, Nacala 306

Chapter 18 Pemba and the Northeast 311

Pemba 312, Montepuez 320, Towards Tanzania 322

Chapter 19 The Quirimbas 328

History 329, Ibo 330, Other islands of the Quirimbas 339, The Quirimbas mainland 342, Pangane 344

Chapter 20 Niassa Province 347

Cuamba 347, Mandimba and Massangulo 349, Lichinga 350, Lago Niassa (Lake Malawi) 354, Niassa Reserve 362

Appendix 1 Language 370

Appendix 2 Further Information 374

Index 378

Index of Advertisers 382