9781607740520

A coobook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant. The Roman empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, SPQRexplores Italy's contemporary local cuisines and artisinal wines. Roads such as the Via Aemilia provide inspiration for chef Matthew Accarrino's Chestnut Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Burnt Orange Sauce, and Pork Jowl, while the Via Salaria influences his inventive Fluke Crudo with Sausage-Stuffed Olives. Along each route, Shelly Lindgren reveals the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers. Brimming with both discovery and tradition, SPQRdelivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.

SHELLY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and SPQR. She has received a James Beard nomination for wine service and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine&Spirits.

SPQR's executive chef MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the recipient of Star Chefs' San Francisco 2010 Rising Star Award.

KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food + Wine.

Introduction

Ancient Information Highways
La Strada del Vino
La Strada della Cucina

Roman Roads
Via Appia—Lazio
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Via Flaminia—Umbria
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana

Resources
Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques
Basic Recipes, and Ingredients

Acknowledgments

Index

Recipes

Via Appia—Lazio

Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup
Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise
Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish
Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad
Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper
Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic
Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans
Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce
Spring Lamb
Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato
Lamb Belly
Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce
Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard
Steamed Artichokes
Pickled Swiss Chard Stems

Via Salaria—Le Marche

Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus
Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad
Baked Anchovies
Passatelli en Brodo
Lasagna Vincisgrassi
Rabbit a la Villa Bucci
Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita

Via Flaminia—Umbria

Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina
Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread
Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle
Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle
Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù
Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens
Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter
Suckling Pig
Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots
Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen
Chops with Prosciutto Sauce
Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini
Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots
Prosciutto Sauce

Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina
Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam
Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens
Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato
Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds
Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans
Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe
Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli
Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck
Mushroom Risotto
Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole
Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette
Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil

Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia

Fritto Misto
Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce
Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba
Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina
Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé
Bolognese with Egg Noodles
Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs
Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter
Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette
Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic

Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta

Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce
Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes
Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta
Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads
Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto
Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto
Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina
Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes
Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato

Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana

Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola
Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries
Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies
Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata
Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata
Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto
Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter
Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù
Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma

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Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina

This is a pasta born from my experience of con niente, a meal created from nothing more than the few ingredients we managed to find around us. With this pasta, I’ve striven to recreate the simplicity of the meal we made at Roberto’s casone on the lagoon. The shrimp—gamberetti—were simply cooked with tomato, then sent through a food mill, shells and all. This rich, pink sauce became the condimento for the store-bought spaghetti that Roberto had on hand.

serves 4 to 6

extra virgin olive oil
150 grams / 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced
12 grams / 3 garlic cloves, minced
150 grams / 1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
454 grams / 1 pound shell-on raw baby shrimp
kosher salt and black pepper
a pinch of dried red pepper flakes
115 grams / 1/2 cup white wine
240 grams / 11/2 cups canned tomatoes
50 grams / 4 breadsticks, like grissini, broken up
2 grams / 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
340 grams / 12 ounces fresh spaghetti (page 264) or dried

Heat a thin film of olive oil in a large, wide pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and sweat until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sweat 1 to 2 minutes more until aromatic. Add the carrot and sweat until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

Turn up the heat to medium-high, stir in the shrimp, and season with salt, pepper, and pepper flakes. Pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato and return to a simmer. Pour in 1 cup of water, lower the heat, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the shrimp are soft enough to break up with a wooden spoon if pressed. Stir the broken grissini pieces into the pot, remove from the heat, and stir in the parsley.
Place a food mill fitted with a coarse plate over a clean pot. In batches, pass the shrimp and broth through the food mill. You will have a coarse paste. (If it’s too dry to go through the food mill, stir in more water). Taste the shrimp paste and season with salt and pepper.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti for 4 minutes if using fresh, and as directed on the package if using dry. Drain the spaghetti, reserving a cup of pasta water, and return the spaghetti to the pasta pot. Stir spoonfuls of the shrimp paste into the spaghetti until evenly coated, adding a few spoonfuls of water if the pasta looks dry, and simmer for one more minute before serving.

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SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine

SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine

1607740524

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