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Essentials of Oceanography

ISBN: 9780137273485 | 0137273487
Edition: 6th
Format: Paperback
Publisher: Prentice Hall
Pub. Date: 12/1/1998

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SummaryTable of Contents
Revised for increased readability and streamlined for clarity, this text is designed to accompany an introductory college-level course in oceanography. This insightful, ecologically sensitive presentation of the relationship of scientific principles to ocean phenomena is made even more relevant to a new generation of teachers and students by pairing new co-author Alan Trujillo with renowned author Harold V. Thurman.
Prefacexiii
Introduction1(481)
What Is Oceanography?
1(1)
Earth's Oceans
2... MORE(1)
Rational Use of Technology?
3(2)
Introduction to Planet ``Earth''
5(27)
Diving into the Marine Environment
5(1)
Geography of the Oceans
6(3)
The Four Principal Oceans, Plus One
7(1)
The Seven Seas?
8(1)
Comparing the Oceans to the Continents
8(1)
Explorations of the Oceans: Some Historical Notes About Oceanography
9(3)
Early History
9(3)
Box 1--1 How Do Sailors Know Where They Are at Sea?: From Stick Charts to Satellites
12(3)
The Middle Ages
11(3)
The Age of Discovery in Europe
14(1)
Voyaging for Science
15(1)
History of Oceanography ... To Be continued
15(1)
The Scientific Method
15(2)
Origins
17(4)
Origin of the Solar System and Earth
17(2)
Origin of the Atmosphere and the Oceans
19(2)
Life Begins in the Oceans
21(2)
The Importance of Oxygen to Life
21(1)
Plants and Animals Evolve
21(2)
The Geologic Time Scale
23(3)
Box 1--2 ``Deep'' Time
26
Students Sometimes Ask ...
24(4)
Summary
28(1)
Key Terms
29(1)
Questions and Exercises
29(1)
References
30(1)
Suggested Reading
30(2)
Plate Tectonics and the Ocean Floor
32(43)
Voyages to Inner Space: Visiting the Deep Ocean Floor via Submersibles
32(2)
Earth Structure
34(4)
Chemical Composition Versus Physical Properties
34(2)
Near the Surface
36(1)
Isostatic Adjustment
36(2)
Some Principles of Plate Tectonics
38(2)
Evidence for Plate Tectonics
40(4)
Fit of the Continents
41(1)
Matching Sequences of Rocks and Mountain Chains
41(1)
Glacial Evidence
41(1)
Fossil and Climate Evidence
42(1)
Continental Magnetism
42(2)
Box 2-1 Do Sea Turtles (and Other Animals) Use Earth's Magnetic Field for Navigation?
44(7)
Evidence from the Ocean Floor
47(4)
Plate Boundaries
51(7)
Divergent Boundaries
51(3)
Convergent Boundaries
54(2)
Transform Boundaries
56(2)
Case Studies: Some Applications of Plate Tectonics
58(9)
Seamounts and Tablemounts
58(2)
Coral Reef Development
60(4)
Mantle Plumes and Hotspots
64(2)
The Past: Paleoceanography
66(1)
The Future: Some Bold Predictions
67(1)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
67(3)
Summary
70(1)
Key Terms
70(1)
Questions and Exercises
71(1)
References
72(1)
Suggested Reading
73(2)
Marine Provinces
75(25)
Experiments in Underwater Living
75(1)
Bathymetry
76(5)
Bathymetric Techniques
76(5)
Box 3--1 Sea Floor Mapping from Space
81
Provinces of the Ocean Floor
78(10)
Features of Continental Margins
79(9)
Box 3--2 A Grand ``Break'': Evidence for Turbidity Currents
88(8)
Features of the Deep-Ocean Basin
88(2)
Features of the Mid-Ocean Ridge
90(6)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
96(1)
Summary
97(1)
Key Terms
97(1)
Questions and Exercises
98(1)
References
98(1)
Suggested Reading
98(2)
Marine Sediments
100(32)
Collecting the Historical Record of the Deep-Ocean Floor
100(2)
Classification of Sediment
102(9)
Lithogenous Sediment
103(3)
Biogenous Sediment
106(5)
Box 4--1 Diatoms: The Most Important Things You Have (Probably) Never Heard Of
111(5)
Hydrogenous Sediment
108(6)
Cosmogenous Sediment
114(2)
Box 4--2 When the Dinosaurs Died: The Cretaceous--Tertiary (K--T) Event
116
Mixtures
114(1)
Neritic and Pelagic Deposits
115(6)
Continental Margin Sediments (Neritic Deposits)
115(3)
Deep-Ocean Sediments (Pelagic Deposits)
118(3)
Distribution of Neritic and Pelagic Deposits
121(3)
Ocean Sediments as a Resource
124(2)
Petroleum
124(1)
Sand and Gravel
124(1)
Evaporative Salts
124(1)
Phosphorite (Phosphate Minerals)
125(1)
Manganese Nodules and Crusts
125(1)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
126(1)
Summary
126(2)
Key Terms
128(1)
Questions and Exercises
129(1)
References
129(1)
Suggested Reading
130(2)
Water and Seawater
132(39)
The HMS Challenger Expedition: Birth of Oceanography
132(2)
Atomic Structure
134(1)
The Water Molecule
134(2)
Geometry
134(1)
Polarity
135(1)
Interconnections of Molecules
135(1)
Water: The Universal Solvent
136(1)
Water's Thermal Properties
136(6)
Heat, Temperature, and Changes of State
137(1)
Water's Freezing and Boiling Points
138(1)
Water's Heat Capacity
138(1)
Water's Latent Heat of Melting
139(1)
Water's Latent Heats of Vaporization and Evaporation
140(2)
Release of Heat by Water
142(1)
Water Density
142(1)
Salinity of Ocean Water
143(3)
Salinity
144(2)
Box 5--1 How to Avoid Goiters
146(2)
Salinity Variations
146(1)
Determining Salinity
147(1)
Dissolved Components Added and Removed from Seawater
148(1)
Processes Affecting Seawater Salinity
149(1)
Processes That Decrease Seawater Salinity
149(1)
Processes That Increase Seawater Salinity
150(1)
The Hydrologic Cycle
150(1)
Surface and Depth Salinity Variation
150(2)
Surface Salinity Variation
150(1)
Depth Salinity Variation
151(1)
Seawater Density
152(4)
Pycnocline and Thermocline
154(2)
Light Transmission in Ocean Water
156(2)
The Electromagnetic Spectrum
156(1)
The Color of Objects
156(2)
Sound Transmission in Ocean Water
158(2)
Box 5--2 The ATOC Experiment: SOFAR So Good?
160
Acidity and Alkalinity of Seawater
158(3)
The pH Scale
159(1)
The Carbonate Buffering System
159(2)
Comparing Pure Water and Seawater
161(1)
Desalination
162(3)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
165(2)
Summary
167(1)
Key Terms
167(1)
Questions and Exercises
168(1)
References
169(1)
Suggested Reading
169(2)
Air--Sea Interaction
171(35)
RMS Titanic. Lost (1912) and Found (1985)
171(2)
Earth's Seasons
173(1)
Uneven Solar Heating on Earth
174(5)
Distribution of Solar Energy
174(2)
Oceanic Heat Flow
176(1)
The Atmosphere: Physical Properties
176(2)
An Example: A Nonspinning Earth
178(1)
The Coriolis Effect
179(3)
Example 1: Perspectives and Frames of Reference on a Merry-Go-Round
180(1)
Example 2: A Tale of Two Missiles
181(1)
Changes in the Coriolis Effect with Latitude
181(1)
Atmospheric Circulation Cells on a Spinning Earth
182(3)
Circulation Cells
182(1)
Pressure
183(1)
Wind Belts
183(2)
Box 6--1 Why Christopher Columbus Never Set Foot on North America
185
Boundaries
184(1)
Circulation Cells: Idealized or Real?
184(1)
The Oceans, Weather, and Climate
184(11)
Winds
187(1)
Storms
188(1)
Tropical Cyclones
189(5)
Climate Patterns in the Oceans
194(1)
The Atmosphere's Greenhouse Effect
195(4)
Which Gases Contribute to the Greenhouse Effect?
196(1)
What Should We Do About the Greenhouse Gases?
196(3)
Box 6--2 Hot and Cold About OTEC Systems
199
Students Sometimes Ask ...
198(3)
Summary
201(1)
Key Terms
202(1)
Questions and Exercises
203(1)
References
203(1)
Suggested Reading
204(2)
Ocean Circulation
206(38)
Benjamin Franklin: The World's Most Famous Physical Oceanographer
206(1)
Measuring Ocean Currents
207(1)
Surface Currents
208(4)
Equatorial Currents, Boundary Currents, and Gyres
208(4)
Box 7--1 Running Shoes as Drift Meters: Just Do It
212(3)
Ekman Spiral and Ekman Transport
211(4)
Box 7--2 The Voyage of the Fram
215(3)
Geostrophic Currents
214(2)
Western Intensification
216(1)
Equatorial Countercurrents
216(2)
Upwelling and Downwelling
218(2)
Diverging Surface Water
218(1)
Converging Surface Water
218(1)
Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling
218(2)
Other Upwelling
220(1)
Surface Currents of the Oceans
220(14)
Antarctic Circulation
220(1)
Atlantic Ocean Circulation
221(5)
Pacific Ocean Circulation
226(6)
Indian Ocean Circulation
232(2)
Deep Currents
234(3)
Origin of Thermohaline Circulation
234(1)
Sources of Deep Water
234(1)
Worldwide Deep-Water Circulation
235(2)
Power from Winds and Currents
237(1)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
238(1)
Summary
239(1)
Key Terms
240(1)
Questions and Exercises
241(1)
References
241(1)
Suggested Reading
242(2)
Waves and Water Dynamics
244(32)
The Biggest Wave in Recorded History: Lituya Bay, Alaska (1958)
244(2)
What Causes Waves?
246(1)
How Waves Move
247(1)
Wave Characteristics
248(3)
Circular Orbital Motion
250(1)
Deep-Water Waves
251(1)
Shallow-Water Waves
251(1)
Transitional Waves
251(1)
Wind-Generated Waves
251(7)
``Sea''
252(6)
Box 8--1 The Drilling Ship Resolution Almost Lost at Sea
258(7)
Swell
256(1)
Rogue Waves
257(1)
Surf
257(5)
Wave Refraction
262(2)
Wave Reflection
264(1)
Tsunami
265(4)
Coastal Effects
265(1)
Historic Tsunami
266(2)
Tsunami Warning System
268(1)
Box 8--2 A Cascadia Tsunami in 1700 Felt in Japan
269
Power from Waves
268(2)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
270(1)
Summary
271(1)
Key Terms
272(1)
Questions and Exercises
273(1)
References
273(1)
Suggested Reading
274(2)
Tides
276(23)
A Brief History of Some Successful Tidal Power Plants
276(1)
Generating Tides
277(9)
Tide-Generating Forces
277(4)
Tidal Bulges: The Moon's Effect
281(1)
Tidal Bulges: The Sun's Effect
281(1)
The Monthly Tidal Cycle
282(2)
Other Factors
284(1)
Idealized Tide Prediction
284(2)
Tides in the Ocean
286(4)
Tidal Patterns
287(1)
Tides in Bays
288(2)
Box 9--1 Tidal Bores: Boring Waves These Are Not!
290(3)
Coastal Tidal Currents
289(4)
Box 9--2 Grunion: Doing What Comes Naturally on the Beach
293
Some Considerations of Tidal Power
292(2)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
294(2)
Summary
296(1)
Key Terms
297(1)
Questions and Exercises
297(1)
References
297(1)
Suggested Reading
298(1)
The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes
299(28)
The Ultimate Protection: The National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP)
299(1)
The Coastal Region
300(5)
Beach Terminology
300(1)
Beach Composition
301(1)
Movement of Sand on the Beach
301(4)
Box 10--1 Warning: Rip Currents ... Do You Know What to Do?
305
Erosional-and Depositional-Type Shores
304(8)
Features of Erosional-Types Shores
304(3)
Features of Depositional-Types Shores
307(5)
Emerging and Submerging Shorelines
312(3)
Tectonic and Isostatic Movements of Earth's Crust
313(1)
Eustatic Changes in Sea Level
314(1)
Characteristics of U.S. Coasts
315(3)
The Atlantic Coast
315(1)
The Gulf Coast
316(1)
The Pacific Coast
316(2)
Effects of Hard Stabilization
318(4)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
322(2)
Summary
324(1)
Key Terms
324(1)
Questions and Exercises
325(1)
References
325(1)
Suggested Reading
326(1)
The Coastal Ocean
327(30)
The Law of the Sea
327(2)
Coastal Waters
329(2)
Salinity
329(1)
Temperature
329(1)
Coastal Geostrophic Currents
329(2)
Estuaries
331(5)
Origin of Estuaries
331(1)
Water Mixing in Estuaries
332(1)
Estuaries and Human Activities
333(3)
Wetlands
336(1)
Serious Loss of Valuable Wetlands
336(1)
Lagoons
336(2)
Laguna Madre
336(2)
A Case Study: The Mediterranean Sea
338(2)
Mediterranean Circulation
339(1)
History of the Mediterranean Sea
340(1)
Pollution in Coastal Waters
340(5)
What Is Pollution?
340(1)
Petroleum
341(4)
Box 11--1 The Exxon Valdez Oil Spill: Not the Worst Spill Ever
345(4)
Sewage Sludge
344(5)
Box 11--2 From A to Z in Plastics: The Miracle Substance?
349(3)
DDT and PCBs
347(1)
Mercury and Minamata Disease
347(5)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
352(1)
Summary
353(1)
Key Terms
353(1)
Questions and Exercises
354(1)
References
355(1)
Suggested Reading
355(2)
The Marine Habitat
357(27)
Charles Darwin and the Voyage of HMS Beagle
357(1)
Classification of Living Things
358(2)
Distribution of Life in the Oceans
360(1)
Why Are There So Few Marine Species?
360(1)
Divisions of the Marine Environment
361(4)
Pelagic (Open Sea) Environment
361(2)
Benthic (Sea Bottom) Environment
363(2)
Classification of Marine Organisms
365(3)
Plankton (Floaters)
365(1)
Nekton (Swimmers)
365(1)
Benthos (Bottom Dwellers)
365(3)
Adaptations of Organisms to the Marine Environment
368(8)
Need for Physical Support
368(2)
Water's Viscosity
370(1)
Temperature
370(2)
Salinity
372(2)
The Importance of Organism Size
374(1)
Dissolved Gasses
375(1)
Box 12--1 The Mudskippers: Amphibious Fish
376(3)
Water's High Transparency
376(3)
Box 12--2 The Deep Scattering Layer (DSL)
379(1)
Pressure
378(1)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
379(1)
Summary
380(1)
Key Terms
381(1)
Questions and Exercises
382(1)
References
382(1)
Suggested Reading
383(1)
Biological Productivity and Energy Transfer
384(28)
Baseline Studies in the California Current: The CalCOFI Program
385(1)
Primary Productivity
385(3)
Photosynthetic Productivity
385(1)
Availability of Nutrients
386(1)
Availability of Solar Radiation
387(1)
Margins of the Oceans
387(1)
Water Color and Life in the Oceans
388(1)
Photosynthetic Marine Organisms
388(6)
Seed-Bearing Plants (Spermatophyta)
388(2)
Macroscopic (Large) Algae
390(1)
Microscopic (Small) Algae
391(3)
Box 13--1 Red Tides: Was Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds Based on Fact?
394
Regional Productivity
393(6)
Productivity in Polar Oceans
393(2)
Productivity in Tropical Oceans
395(2)
Productivity in Temperate Oceans
397(2)
Energy Flow
399(1)
Energy Flow in Marine Ecosystems
399(1)
Box 13--2 Symbiosis: The Story of Cohabitation
400
Biogeochemical Cycling
399(5)
Carbon, Nitrogen, and Phosphorus Cycles
399(4)
The Silicon Cycle
403(1)
Trophic Levels and Biomass Pyramids
404(2)
Trophic Levels
404(1)
Transfer Efficiency
404(1)
Biomass Pyramid
404(2)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
406(2)
Summary
408(1)
Key Terms
409(1)
Questions and Exercises
409(1)
References
410(1)
Suggested Reading
410(2)
Animals of the Pelagic Environment
412(34)
Alexander Agassiz: Advancements in Ocean Sampling
412(1)
Adaptations for Staying Above the Ocean Floor
413(10)
Gas Containers
413(1)
Floating Organisms (Zooplankton)
414(4)
Swimming Organisms (Nekton)
418(5)
Box 14--1 Some Myths and Facts About Sharks
423
Adaptations for Seeking Prey
421(3)
Lungers Versus Cruisers
421(1)
Speed and Body Size
421(2)
Cold-Blooded Versus Warm-Blooded
423(1)
Circulatory System Modifications
424(1)
Adaptations to Avoid Being Prey
424(2)
Schooling
425(1)
Deep-Water Nekton
426(1)
Marine Mammals
426(11)
Order Pinnipedia
429(1)
Order Sirenia
430(1)
Order Cetacea
430(7)
Box 14--2 Killer Whales: A Reputation Deserved?
437(3)
An Example of Migration: Gray Whales
439(1)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
440(2)
Summary
442(1)
Key Terms
443(1)
Questions and Exercises
443(1)
References
444(1)
Suggested Reading
444(2)
Animals of the Benthic Environment
446(36)
The Debate on Life in the Deep Ocean: The Rosses and Edward Forbes
446(1)
Rocky Shores
447(5)
Spray (Supralittoral) Zone
449(1)
High Tide Zone
449(1)
Middle Tide Zone
449(3)
Low Tide Zone
452(1)
Sediment-Covered Shores
452(6)
The Sediment
453(1)
Intertidal Zonation
453(1)
Life in the Sediment
454(1)
The Sandy Beach
455(3)
The Mud Flat
458(1)
Shallow Offshore Ocean Floor
458(9)
The Rocky Bottom (Sublittoral)
459(2)
Coral Reefs
461(6)
Box 15--1 How White I Am: Coral Bleaching and Other Diseases
467
The Deep-Ocean Floor
464(6)
The Physical Environment
464(6)
Box 15--2 How Long Would Your Remains Remain on the Sea Floor?
470(7)
Food Sources and Species Diversity
469(1)
Deep-Sea Hydrothermal Vent Biocommunities
470(5)
Low-Temperature Seep Biocommunities
475(2)
Students Sometimes Ask ...
477(2)
Summary
479(1)
Key Terms
479(1)
Questions and Exercises
480(1)
References
480(1)
Suggested Reading
481(1)
Afterword482(16)
Appendices484(14)
I Metric and English Units Compared
484(4)
II Latitude and Longitude on Earth
488(4)
III Geographic Locations
492(2)
IV Careers in Oceanography
494(4)
Glossary498(17)
Credits and Acknowledgments515(4)
Index519

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